Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills

Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills

by Craig Luebben
ISBN-10:
0898867436
ISBN-13:
9780898867435
Pub. Date:
05/28/2004
Publisher:
Mountaineers Books, The
ISBN-10:
0898867436
ISBN-13:
9780898867435
Pub. Date:
05/28/2004
Publisher:
Mountaineers Books, The
Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills

Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills

by Craig Luebben

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Overview

A professional guide for more than twenty years, Craig Luebben has taught rock climbing basics to hundreds of clients and has conducted self-rescue clinics across the U.S. Here he presents the modern knowledge you need to rock climb in almost any arena. Learn a dynamic style of movement for the greatest climbing efficiency, how to avoid and escape hazardous situations, and much more.

Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780898867435
Publisher: Mountaineers Books, The
Publication date: 05/28/2004
Series: Mountaineers Outdoor Expert Series
Pages: 224
Product dimensions: 6.80(w) x 8.50(h) x 0.55(d)

Table of Contents

Acknowlegments10
Introduction11
How to Use This Book13
Chapter 1Face Climbing--Dancing on the Rock
Footwork21
Handholds25
Body Position30
Moving on Rock33
Chapter 2Crack Climbing--Climbing Cracks from Fingertip Width to Full-Body Chimneys
Splitters and Corners41
Finger Jams41
Hand and Foot Jams43
Moving Up the Crack44
Fist Jams45
Off-size Cracks47
Off-width Cracks49
Squeeze Chimneys54
Chimneys54
Chapter 3Climbing Gear--Outfitting for the Climb
Belay Devices61
Carabiners62
Chalkbag65
Clothing65
Cord66
Crash Pad66
Harness67
Helmet68
Quickdraws70
Shoes70
Rope Bags and Tarps71
Ropes72
The Ten Essentials77
Webbing Slings77
Chapter 4Knots--Bringing the Rope to Life
Harness Tie-in Knots80
Knots for Tying into Anchors81
Knots for Tying Webbing and Cord into Loops86
Knots for Joining Rappel Ropes and Top-ropes89
Rappel Safety Knots89
Knots for Attaching Slings94
Hitch for Rappelling and Belaying94
Chapter 5Belay Anchors and Lead Protection--Protecting Traditional Climbs
The Evolution of Climbing Anchors98
Chocks100
Camming Units102
Ball Nuts108
Big Bro Expandable Tubes109
The Climbing Rack110
Natural Protection112
Fixed Protection113
Equalizing Protection114
Opposing Protection115
The V-angle115
Rigging Multidirectional Anchors116
Rigging Anchors with a Cordelette117
Rigging Belay Anchors with Slings119
Rigging Belay Anchors with the Climbing Rope120
The Daisy Chain122
Keeping the Belayer Down122
Chapter 6Belaying--Keeping Your Partner Safe
Rigging a Belay Device126
Belayer Position and Anchoring126
Belaying a Top-roped Climber129
Belaying a Leader131
Catching a Fall131
Lowering a Climber132
Belaying with a Munter Hitch132
Belaying with a GriGri133
Belaying the Second Climber135
Communication Signals138
Chapter 7Top-roping--Climbing with the Safety of an Overhead Rope
Setting a Slingshot Top-rope143
Climbing with a Slingshot Top-rope146
Passing a Knot146
Managing a Top-belay Top-rope148
Chapter 8Sport Climbing--Climbing Bolt-protected Routes
Sport-climbing Hazards153
Climbing Style154
Climbing the Route155
Lowering from the Route160
Belaying a Sport Route164
Onsighting a Route166
Working a Route167
The Redpoint168
Bailing from a Sport Route169
Chapter 9Traditional Lead Climbing--Leading with Protection from Nuts and Cams
Traditional Rack174
Topos175
The Approach175
The Route177
Leading Strategy178
The Protection System179
The Physics of Falling187
Keeping Your Head188
Bailing191
Following a Pitch191
The First Lead192
Chapter 10Multipitch Free Climbs--Climbing High and Free
The Two-person Team196
Rope Management200
Where to Belay202
Hanging Belays202
Fast and Light203
Extra Gear for a Long Route204
Time Budget205
Three-person Teams206
Chapter 11Getting Down--Returning to Earth
Walking Off212
Downclimbing213
Lowering214
Rappelling214
Chapter 12Bouldering--Leaving the Rope at Home
The Bouldering Session237
Bouldering Variety239
Falling240
Spotting240
Bouldering Hazards243
Environmental Considerations243
Chapter 13Training--Improving Your Mental and Physical Fitness for Rock Climbing
Warming Up248
Work Your Weaknesses248
Improving Technique249
Power and Endurance249
Climbing Strength251
Balance252
Training the Brain253
Hydration and Nutrition253
Resting254
Chapter 14Climbing Safe--Avoiding and Escaping Bad Situations
Self-rescue and First-aid Training260
Self-rescue Gear261
Friction Hitches261
Load-releasable Knots263
Ascending a Rope266
Escaping a Belay269
The Next Step274
Hauling Your Partner276
Rappelling Past a Knot281
Tandem Rappel to Evacuate an Injured Partner283
Appendix AClimbing Rating Systems286
Appendix BSuggested Reading288
Appendix CClimbing Resources289
Glossary290
Index297
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