Recipe

For centuries spice trading brought culinary, social, religious and political exchanges between the kingdoms of Siam (Thailand) and Java. Today, satay are so much a part of Thai cooking that it's hard to believe they were once strictly an Indonesian dish. Serve with Thai Sweet Pepper Sauce [see book] or Thai Vegetarian Peanut Sauce [see below].

Marinade (Makes 2/3 cup)
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
5 garlic cloves, minced (2 1/2 tablespoons)
1 tablespoon minced galangal or ginger
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
1/2 cup combined coconut cream and milk (the consistency of whole milk)

Satay (Makes 10 to 12 skewers)
1 pound boneless, skinless chicken breasts or thighs
10 to 12 bamboo skewers, soaked in water for 30 minutes, then dried
Vegetable oil spray

Make the Marinade

1. Put the coriander seeds in a small skillet and dry-roast over medium-high heat, sliding the skillet back and forth over the burner to prevent burning, until the seeds exude a pleasant aroma, about 1 minute. Remove from the heat and transfer to a bowl to cool. Repeat with the cumin seeds. Grind in a spice grinder and set aside.
2. Pound the salt and garlic in a mortar with a pestle into a paste. Add the galangal and pound into a paste. Transfer to a mixing bowl and add the coriander and cumin seeds, cayenne, and turmeric powder. Mix to combine. Add the coconut cream mixture and mix well. Set aside.
3. Or, if using a blender, add all the ingredients and puree. Transfer to a mixing bowl and set aside.
4. Stored in a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid, the marinade will keep overnight in the refrigerator.

Make the Satay

1. Slice the chicken diagonally across the grain into thin strips approximately 1/10 inch, or as thin as possible. Add the chicken to the marinade; mix well to coat. Cover and refrigerate for 30 minutes.
2. Mound the charcoals in one side of the grill, leaving the other side empty. Heat the grill.
3. While waiting for the grill to get hot, thread 3 to 4 pieces of the chicken onto each bamboo skewer into a tight bundle, covering 5 inches of the skewer. Reserve the remaining marinade.
4. Spray the chicken generously with vegetable oil. Lay the skewers with the chicken portion on the grill over medium-high heat, arranging them very close to one another. (The uncovered portion of the skewers should not be over the coals.) Grill, basting frequently with the marinade and turning frequently to prevent burning, until the surface is crispy and brown and the inside is firm and white, about 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter and serve.

THAI VEGETARIAN PEANUT SAUCE
Makes 1 cup

Although this peanut sauce is for vegetarians, carnivores will love it too. Unlike the Indonesian version, it is light, with a fruity taste and nice floral scent. Use it with tofu, chicken or shrimp satay. Palm sugar is available in most Asian supermarkets or through mail-order sources.

1/2 teaspoon sea salt
4 garlic cloves, minced (2 tablespoons)
15 chiles de arbol or chile Japones, softened in hot water-dried seeded or not, depending on your preference for spiciness and minced (1/3 cup)
1 stalk lemongrass, tough outer layers and green parts removed and minced (1/4 cup)
2 shallots, minced (1/4 cup)
1 tablespoon minced galangal or ginger
1 cup combined coconut cream and milk (the consistency of whole milk)
1 tablespoon soy sauce
3 tablespoons palm sugar
2 tablespoons creamy peanut butter
3 tablespoons tamarind juice

1. Pound the salt and garlic in a mortar with a pestle into a fine paste. One at a time, add the chiles, lemongrass, and shallots, galangal in sequence, adding each only after the previous ingredient has been pureed and incorporated into the paste.
2. Or, if using a blender, combine all the above ingredients, add the coconut cream mixture, and puree.
3. Combine the chile paste and coconut cream (or the chile paste-coconut cream mixture) in a saucepan over medium-low heat and cook, stirring constantly to prevent the coconut cream from curdling, until the mixture begins to bubble, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the soy sauce, palm sugar, and peanut butter and cook, stirring to dissolve the sugar and peanut butter. When the mixture begins to boil, add the tamarind juice. Stir to mix. Cook until the liquid begins to boil again. Transfer to a bowl and let cool before serving. Or store in a glass jar with a tight lid in the refrigerator for up to a week.

KOREAN-STYLE GRILLED BEEF IN LETTUCE
Makes 6 to 8 servings

The sugar in this marinade balances the saltiness of soy sauce, as well as caramelizing the meat. The beef is superb when wrapped in crisp, crunchy lettuce. Kimchi is a Korean spicy pickled cabbage, available in many supermarkets and groceries. Serve with Grilled Potato, Egg, and Bean Thread Salad [see book].

2 tablespoons sugar
1/3 cup sake or dry vermouth
28 garlic cloves, 8 minced, 20 peeled and left whole
14 scallions (green and white parts), 4 finely chopped, 10 left whole
1/2 cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon sesame seeds
1 tablespoon sesame oil
1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
2 pounds boneless top sirloin or London broil
Vegetable oil spray
20 iceberg lettuce leaves
About 1 cup kimchi

1. Combine the sugar, sake, minced garlic, green onion, soy sauce, sesame seeds, sesame oil, black pepper, and cayenne in a zippered plastic bag. Seal and toss the bag back and forth to combine. Add the meat and garlic cloves. Seal and toss the bag back and forth to coat the meat well. Refrigerate at least for 1 hour, or, for best results, overnight.
2. Heat the grill.
3. While waiting for the grill to get hot, remove the beef from the refrigerator. Transfer the beef, garlic cloves, and whole scallions to a platter. Drain the marinade into a bowl.
4. Place a fine-mesh grill rack on the regular rack. Spray the beef generously with the vegetable oil and place on the grill. Grill, basting with the reserved marinade and turning frequently to prevent burning, until medium-rare, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter and let sit for 5 minutes.
5. In the meantime, place the garlic cloves and scallions on the fine metal rack. Grill turning frequently, until slightly charred and soft to the touch, about 2 minutes. Transfer to a serving platter and tent with aluminum foil to keep warm while you slice the beef.
6. Slice the beef into thin long pieces. Chop the green onions into bite-size chunks. To eat, place 2 to 3 slices of meat, a clove of garlic, and 2 to 3 chunks of green onions on a lettuce leaf. Top with a pinch or two of kimchi and fold over sides and make a complete bundle.