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Out of the Firing Line ... Into the Foyer

My Remarkable Story

The History Press

CHARABANCS, MARIGOLDS AND SCRUMPIES

'Childhood is measured out by sounds and smells and sights, before the dark hour of reason grows.'

John Betjeman

I'd better warn you, dear reader, before you start to tuck into my story, that there is an awful lot about food and restaurants in the book, and you might begin to feel a little peckish. I suggest, therefore, that an accompaniment of an amuse-bouche or a little nibble of some sort might help you digest the following couple of hundred pages. G.K. Chesterton once wrote, 'Poets have been mysteriously silent on the subject of cheese.' I am by no means a poet, but I am certainly never silent on the subject of cheese or other kinds of foodstuff.

When I was a young boy, father used to send me on my bicycle down into the town – a good 1½ miles away – to a butcher friend of ours, Mr Greenland, to purchase home-cured bacon for breakfast. It really was the most delicious bacon, and I've never had anything like it since. I'm afraid that I have to say that nothing tastes the same as in the old days. I suppose that you assume it's because of my age that I think this way, but it's not – I'm only saying it because it's true!

My childhood was dominated by food as my parents ran a small hotel in Weston-super-Mare and I used to spend a lot of time in the kitchen with the chefs. I'd watch them working, and they would let me do little jobs like washing the vegetables, slicing tomatoes and other things like that to help them. My father, although not a chef, was a very good amateur cook, and he turned the hotel's restaurant into a place where people used to come for miles to dine. I was always amazed how the dining room was full of people day after day. This was the first time I saw how people reacted to food and how much enjoyment they took from the experience. When I was very young I'd be sitting on somebody's lap and he'd tell me he had come all the way from Bristol to eat at The Lake Hotel. I used to marvel at that, as up until then it had never occurred to me that people were interested in what they ate. It was pretty straightforward food, but the ingredients were the best my father could provide for his customers.

I'm getting a little ahead of myself here. I do apologise. Let's go back a little: I was born George Charles Bruce Copp on 27 January 1920 in the Railway Hotel, Penarth, in the Vale of Glamorgan. I was given my middle name, Charles, after an uncle, Lance Corporal Charles Copp, who had been killed in Iraq in the First World War at the age of 28 (his brother Ernest also lost his life in that war) and 'Bruce' was a family name, which was given to all my siblings – whatever their gender. My sister Di, who is twenty months younger than me, once asked my mother why all family members, irrespective of gender, were given the middle name of 'Bruce'. My mother simply replied, 'Because I adore your father.' I was actually one of six siblings: another sister, Joan, and three brothers, Reginald, Jack and Tom.

The Copps can be traced back to the seventeenth century, and my stock derives from yeoman farmers in North Devon. My grandfather, Thomas Bruce Copp, owned the Royal Coach Company. The Copps ran all the buses and coach trips in the area and had been in the business for years, since the days of the horse-drawn buses; they actually owned the first charabanc in the West Country. Barnstaple was originally their base, and later on they opened up the transport businesses in Ilfracombe and throughout Devon. I sometimes travelled in one of Grandpa Copp's coaches if there was ever a spare seat.

We used to go to Woolacombe on occasions, and it was at the town's lovely beach that I learned how to surf. Grandpa Copp was one of the last great gentlemen from quite a well-known family in north Devon and was also a local dignitary, being the first chairman of the Ilfracombe Urban District Council. I remember being with him when he used to walk to his office in Ilfracombe's High Street and everyone came out of their homes to say hello, doffing their caps and proffering good wishes. There were abundant handshakes all round, and grandpa would brandish his walking stick and raise his top hat to one and all. His wife, Edith, my grandmother, was the daughter of a Biddeford shipbuilder, John Cox.

My father also went under the name of Thomas Bruce Copp and was equally known in Torrington and Ilfracombe. Strikingly handsome and charming, he was a racing man, an expert horseman, who had served in the First World War as a sergeant in the Yeomanry. His duties were to select suitable horses for the Front. Unlike his two brothers mentioned previously, he survived the Great War and was retired from the Yeomanry in 1917 on account of a heart valve defect caused by his having contracted rheumatic fever in childhood. Father was very kind, a great gentleman and more than a little disappointed that I wasn't more interested in the equine world. In my early years, I accompanied him to some stables where I became nauseated by the smell and threw up.

My mother, Florence Emily Holbrook, was born in Swansea: her father was Welsh and her Irish mother had graduated from Trinity University, Dublin. She was younger than my father and tremendously warm and witty. Di recently told me that she had never met anyone like her: 'Mother was beautiful, the perfect mother – always loving and encouraging.'

My mother was one of four rather beautiful sisters – she was, in my opinion, the most beautiful – but was the only one that didn't marry into money. The others had all become involved with rich men. One sister, Kate, was the mistress of the Greek shipping millionaire Embericos, who was a kind of Onassis of his time and had his own family in Greece. Kate used to quite fancy my father. She was a wonderful woman, extremely witty, chic and quite lovely. She was the first really sophisticated lady I'd ever met, and I've loved those sorts of women all my life. In fact, I'd go as far as to say she was another Marlene Dietrich ...

My parents originally lived in a small house in Ilfracombe before moving into a little house on the outskirts of Weston-super-Mare when I was a small child. Father was the eldest of his siblings and was expected to run the transport business, but he just wasn't interested – he was much more of 'a devil may care' character and wanted something else for himself and my mother.

For many years Weston was just a small village of about thirty houses, until the hamlet became popular as a seaside resort. Its location, situated behind a number of sand dunes, was perfect, and by the middle of the eighteenth century doctors began to exalt the merits of drinking and bathing in sea water; for residents of Bath and Bristol, Weston was the nearest coastal village. The first hotel was opened in 1810, and Brunel's Bristol and Exeter Railway reached the town thirty years later. In the 1880s Weston became a centre for thousands of visitors, and the pier offered 'a theatre of wonders, an alpine railway, a shooting gallery, park swings, merry-go-round, switchback, helter-skelter and bandstand'.

A second pier, which was more in the centre of the town and brought day trippers nearer the shops, was built in 1904. One of the piers burned down a few years ago; there was another time when it caught fire. I remember seeing it. It was in 1930, and we had workmen decorating the front of the hotel, so there was a ladder against the wall. I climbed halfway up and watched the fire. It was quite an exciting event for an inquisitive 10 year old.

Two years earlier, the Winter Gardens and the Pavilion were created, and the open-air pool, famous for its arched concrete diving board, was built. The mid-1930s saw the addition of the Odeon cinema, and I remember standing in the road, waving a flag, when the Duke and Duchess of York visited Weston in 1934 to open the hospital.

The Marine Lake was built to provide a safe shallow beach where the tide was always in, and it was here, on the seafront, that Grandpa Copp 'staked' my father by providing funds for him to run a small hotel. It was inevitably called The Marine Lake Hotel, and adjacent to the hotel was a very grand ice-cream parlour, run by a lovely Italian family. It was a special treat to go there, and it was where I had my first ever Knickerbocker Glory.

Mother and father adored each other, and they loved attending the West End theatre. They used to travel to London regularly and would stay at the Strand Palace Hotel. Both were food connoisseurs and had knowledge of everything on the menu; in fact, all the family were obsessed with quality fare. Because of the nature and character of my parents and growing up in a hotel, I enjoyed an idyllic and unconventional upbringing.

My parents were devoted to us and gave us as much time as they could, although all the while they were being kept busy by the business. To encourage our independence, they also gave us all the freedom that we needed and never criticised us unfairly. They would put us right on things and correct us when necessary but always did it in a kindly way. They were the most wonderful couple, and I can't compare them with anybody else's parents because they were so special.

I had a little canoe, a sort of kayak, which I loved. One day I decided to paddle to Steep Holm, which is a little island, a bird sanctuary, halfway between us and Cardiff. It's about 25 miles across the channel, and about halfway I gave up and turned back, realising I couldn't make it the whole way across to the island. I didn't know until the next day that my mother had been on the balcony of the hotel watching me through a pair of binoculars and becoming more and more horrified as I went further and further away. But she never said a word to me when I returned. That's a perfect example of what my parents were like. They never made you feel as if you'd done something wrong. All she would say is, 'I'm so glad you enjoyed yourself. You're very good in that canoe. You went a long way out and came back. Very clever!' That's how my parents reacted. We were never on the receiving end of serious admonishment such as 'Don't you ever do that again' or that sort of stuff.

I can remember riding in the back of my father's horse and trap, which he drove into Weston in the early 1920s. By the time I was 5 years old we had a car; we were the only people in the whole area that had one. It was a funny little snub-nosed Morris with a dicky seat, which I always used to occupy when we went out for a spin. There was no heating, and my mother used to have a big foot muff to put her feet in and another for her hands. In those days the roads were so clear and it was very pleasant – not like now when no one goes for a leisurely spin because the traffic is unbearable and petrol so expensive. I think the term 'Sunday Driver' is no longer pertinent. I remember many special car trips to Cheddar Gorge. We ate cheese and then devoured the strawberries that grew on slopes near the gorge. They were the best in the world.

Another thing I recall was the harvest festival, and I remember one year in particular. There was a park nearby, and a slope led uphill to the church. Everyone was carrying things up to the church, and I was hauling something too – I don't know what ... probably a cucumber or the like. Anyway, there was a boy who was a little bit older than me, and his family had given him a huge marrow as an offering, and he'd tied string to it as a handle and was pulling the lengthy squash along the grass as if he was walking a dog. I've never forgotten that image, and the memory has affected me all my life – to the extent that I have since felt that marrows should be always treated with such disdain.

During the summer, when the hotel was always full, our family lived in the basement area where the kitchens were located, and we created our own family sitting room. We slept in bunk beds in two tiny bedrooms, and from mine I could climb out of the window, cross the lawn and walk down to the beach and sea. I remember having mumps when quite young and having to be separated from the rest of the family. I had to sleep downstairs while everyone else was upstairs, and I will never forget that awful feeling of isolation: it was the first time I ever felt lonely, I suppose.

I was generally in good health during my childhood, although I did faint once during a church parade. We were all lined up, ready to march to the local church for a service that I didn't want to go to. I wasn't religious, although I had been confirmed, and all the family, although not over zealous, were regular churchgoers and went to communion. The officer in charge of the parade was a friend of mine: one of the only army officers I knew in those days. Just before being called to attention and marching off, I suddenly fell down in a dead faint and couldn't participate. I expect it was psychological ... or the work of Satan.

We had very little pocket money, and it wasn't just given out: we had to earn it by doing odd jobs. I used to mow the lawn or paint the railings or whatever, and my father would reward me. I remember having to save for a few months when I did want to ride and needed a new racing costume. Even in those days an outfit cost about 30s as they were made from silk. I remember roller skating along Weston seafront with my friends; none of us had much money, but we used to go into the fish and chip shop and get a bag of scrumpies, which were the scraps of leftover batter. We used to get four bags for 1d.

We prepared tea trays for the holidaymakers, and people would come from the beach across the road to the hotel and get a laden tea tray and carry it back to the beach. We had a little tent we used to erect at the end of the lawn next to the hotel's railings, and we would take quite a big deposit to make sure the customers brought everything back. A tray for a whole family would cost about 2s. We provided teapots and hot water, milk and sugar, cups and saucers and teaspoons – the lot. Food would be extra, of course! I used to love doing that with my brother Jack. It was my first experience of 'service'.

We were also very big on family teas. Our various nursemaids were usually teenagers from the mining valleys, and on one occasion we had a Welsh girl who had never ever seen sugar. When she was given her cup of tea and told to help herself to sugar, she put so much in the cup that it overflowed. We had to teach her how to use it. It's extraordinary when you look back at how simply most people lived in those days and how privileged some of us were. Sugar was a luxury for some people. Far too many people had very little food in those days, and it shames me to think that we were living so comfortably when there was so much poverty.

My sister Joan was a bit older than us and very much the organiser. When we were young we always used to put on some kind of entertainment for our parents. I remember one year, when Joan was about 16, she was directing us in our most ambitious production: an elaborate musical show, which included the song 'We'll All Go Riding on a Rainbow' from the film Aunt Sally, starring Cicely Courtneidge. The lyrics seemed to sum up our happy childhood:

Sing brothers, and sing sisters
We're all leaving today
And we'll all go riding on a rainbow
To a new land far away

Get started, be light hearted
There's no time for delay
And we'll all go riding on a rainbow
To a new land far away

Everyone playing in the sun
Without a worry or care
Children dancing through fields of daisies
With rose buds in their hair, ah-ah-ah

We made all our own costumes, and Joan choreographed the dance routine but became very annoyed when those of us in the chorus line messed up our steps. I remember her wielding a stick and letting us have it when we got things wrong. I think she thought she was Busby Berkeley. Despite her autocratic nature while in 'show business' mode, Joan was always agreeable and quite lovely. The pillar of the family, she later became an officer in the ATS and worked at their HQ in Nottingham, dishing out the pay.

In fact there was very little sibling rivalry of a serious nature, and I don't recall any dramatic scenes or fallings out, as we all got on very well together and respected each other. I think it was largely down to the most marvellous parenting and the fact that there was absolutely no favouritism. Di was the closest in age to me, and we used to go for long walks together. She was always ... and still is ... incredibly intelligent and sensible. Father used to say, 'Di's the one with the money – if you ever need to borrow £100, Diana will have it stashed somewhere.'

My father taught me how to swim at a very young age, and I used to go to the beach early every morning. I joined the Weston swimming club, which at that time was a noted institution and produced lots of champion swimmers. I spent a lot of time in the water from the age of 7, and I entered into the annual mile race in the sea when I was 10.

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Excerpted from Out of the Firing Line ... Into the Foyer by Bruce Copp, Andy Merriman. Copyright © 2015 Bruce Copp. Excerpted by permission of The History Press.
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