Baking by Flavor

Lisa Yockelson's classic guide to baking—finally in paperback

Flavor is the essence of fine baking, the source of wonderful tastes and aromas that tempt the palate and delight the senses. In Baking by Flavor, Lisa Yockelson shares flavor-boosting secrets that can make virtually any recipe burst with new vigor and freshness. She reveals concepts and techniques for using 18 basic ingredients, including chocolate, vanilla, apricot, and lemon—in order to stack flavors layer by delicious layer.

Home bakers will learn to bring excite to old classics as the author enlivens a dormant pound cake by scenting its sugar with vanilla, creams the butter with vanilla scrapings, and beats egg yolks with a double-strength vanilla extract. Chocolate brownies become richly sensuous with the addition of chopped nuts coated with cocoa powder and confectioner's sugar.

  • Includes 260 recipes that will inspire home bakers to bring old favorites into new delights
  • Beautifully illustrated with 118 color photographs
  • Presents recipes in clearly written, easy-to-follow instructions that are accessible for cooks of every level

For home bakers who are tired of the same-old same-old, Baking by Flavor offers new ways to bring excitement to the every day.

1101229601
Baking by Flavor

Lisa Yockelson's classic guide to baking—finally in paperback

Flavor is the essence of fine baking, the source of wonderful tastes and aromas that tempt the palate and delight the senses. In Baking by Flavor, Lisa Yockelson shares flavor-boosting secrets that can make virtually any recipe burst with new vigor and freshness. She reveals concepts and techniques for using 18 basic ingredients, including chocolate, vanilla, apricot, and lemon—in order to stack flavors layer by delicious layer.

Home bakers will learn to bring excite to old classics as the author enlivens a dormant pound cake by scenting its sugar with vanilla, creams the butter with vanilla scrapings, and beats egg yolks with a double-strength vanilla extract. Chocolate brownies become richly sensuous with the addition of chopped nuts coated with cocoa powder and confectioner's sugar.

  • Includes 260 recipes that will inspire home bakers to bring old favorites into new delights
  • Beautifully illustrated with 118 color photographs
  • Presents recipes in clearly written, easy-to-follow instructions that are accessible for cooks of every level

For home bakers who are tired of the same-old same-old, Baking by Flavor offers new ways to bring excitement to the every day.

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Baking by Flavor

Baking by Flavor

by Lisa Yockelson
Baking by Flavor

Baking by Flavor

by Lisa Yockelson

Paperback

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Overview

Lisa Yockelson's classic guide to baking—finally in paperback

Flavor is the essence of fine baking, the source of wonderful tastes and aromas that tempt the palate and delight the senses. In Baking by Flavor, Lisa Yockelson shares flavor-boosting secrets that can make virtually any recipe burst with new vigor and freshness. She reveals concepts and techniques for using 18 basic ingredients, including chocolate, vanilla, apricot, and lemon—in order to stack flavors layer by delicious layer.

Home bakers will learn to bring excite to old classics as the author enlivens a dormant pound cake by scenting its sugar with vanilla, creams the butter with vanilla scrapings, and beats egg yolks with a double-strength vanilla extract. Chocolate brownies become richly sensuous with the addition of chopped nuts coated with cocoa powder and confectioner's sugar.

  • Includes 260 recipes that will inspire home bakers to bring old favorites into new delights
  • Beautifully illustrated with 118 color photographs
  • Presents recipes in clearly written, easy-to-follow instructions that are accessible for cooks of every level

For home bakers who are tired of the same-old same-old, Baking by Flavor offers new ways to bring excitement to the every day.


Product Details

ISBN-13: 9781118169674
Publisher: Houghton Mifflin Harcourt
Publication date: 10/25/2011
Pages: 592
Product dimensions: 7.40(w) x 9.10(h) x 1.20(d)

About the Author

LISA YOCKELSON is a food writer for both the Washington Post, the Boston Globe, and the New York Times and has contributed recipes and essays to publications including Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture, Chocolatier, Pastry Art & Design, and Cook's Illustrated. Her Gastronomica article "Brownies: A Memoir" was included in Best Food Writing 2002. Yockelson is the author of ten cookbooks, including ChocolateChocolate (2005), which won The International Association of Culinary Professionals' (IACP) Award for Bread, Other Baking and Sweets category and was nominated for a James Beard Award in 2006, and Baking by Flavor (2002), which won the IACP Award for Bread, Other Baking and Sweets category and was nominated for a James Beard Foundation prestigious award in 2003. She is a graduate of the London Cordon Bleu.

Read an Excerpt

The Focus and Purpose of Baking by Flavor

In many ways Baking by Flavor is a personal baking memoir, a recipe journal that records the way that my own baking style has taken shape. It's also a detailed look into how recipes that underscore specific flavors can be highlighted, then uplifted, intensified, and invigorated. It's important to put these recipes in an evolutionary time frame: a good number of them have evolved in my kitchen over the last 12 years, and many well before then. Although the exact concept had not been codified in my kitchen until a certain time, the idea for packing as much flavor as possible into baked goods has always been a significant consideration in my baking and work in recipe development.

The focus of this book is threefold: (1) to explore how a particular flavor is best developed in a recipe and then imparted to a certain sweet; (2) to elevate the flavor in traditional baking recipes that primarily use doughs and batters, and to deliver them into an up-to-date setting; and (3) to chronicle my research into flavor-baking. Baking by Flavor is both a baking cookbook about the hows and whys of bringing out flavor in baked goods and a compendium of recipes that spotlight many appealing flavors.

In researching and formulating the concept of flavor-baking, I found myself sifting through, and ultimately challenging, traditional formulas, procedures, and approaches, and finding ways to introduce taste into baked sweets and their accompanying fillings, glazes, frostings, and sauces. In the beginning I began to inspect recipes through a "taste magnifying glass." As a result, some old recipes seemed quaint. The recipefor Essence of Chocolate Squares on page 282 is a good example of that process. The squares are composed of two layers: a dense and fudgy chocolate cake layer covered completely by a creamy chocolate frosting. My goal was to create, in one bar cookie, an intense chocolate flavor with a bittersweet edge, a moist denseness, a buttery "crumb," and a thick swath of frosting that sweetly contrasts to and merges with the layer beneath. Actually, I was going after something that was part brownie, part confection. Over many months, the composition of this sweet was fine-tuned and ultimately revised to my taste. Many more of my recipes went the route of cultivation and revision, and I worked in this area to satisfy my own contemporary tastes, and to rescue and improve upon recipes that seemed, quite honestly, boring.

The purpose of Baking by Flavor is to offer to all cooks whose passion is baking—whether at home or in a restaurant kitchen—some challenging ways to look at and improve recipes in particular flavor categories.

The Organization of the Chapters

PART I of this book "The Art of Baking by Flavor," is for the conceptual baker, while Part II, "The Flavors," is for the passionate, in-the-kitchen baker. The first four chapters in the book (" The Way to Bake by Flavor," "An Inventory of Baking Equipment," "Creating a Baking Pantry," and "Craft and Technique") illustrate the way you go about making a particular flavor taste dynamic, show you how to make pantry staples that brighten the recipes, survey the kind of equipment used throughout the book, and explain fundamental methods for working with the batters and doughs that are an important element of the recipes. Chapters 5 through 22 (Part II) put all of those notions into recipe form.

The recipes are organized by specific flavor.

The five charts in Part I provide important background material. They've been designed so that home bakers and professionals alike can obtain a range of detailed information about flavors, batters, and doughs at a glance.

Chapter 23, "About Freezing Baked Goods," details the range of baked goods in this book that can be frozen either in their completed state or in dough form, gives recommendations for freezer storage time, and offers suggestions for reheating what you defrost.

About the Recipes

In my experience, batters and doughs are the most flexible and responsive to high-intensity flavoring. As a result, the recipes in this book have been developed around specific baked goods that are styled with them: butter cakes, pound cakes, coffee cakes, keeping cakes, tea cakes and loaves, tortes, bar cookies, drop cookies, rolled cookies, press-in-the-pan cookies (such as shortbread), biscuits and scones, muffins, all kinds of yeasted sweet rolls (sticky buns, crumb and streusel buns, and schnecken), pancakes (both flapjacks and crêpes) and waffles. All the fillings, icings, frostings, and glazes that flatter what you bake are included, too.

A typical recipe is composed of an introduction, a list of ingredients, a notation of the bakeware used, and the procedure. Sometimes an "observation line" will appear in the procedure at a critical point in the recipe. The observation line reveals what the dough or batter looks like at a particular (or critical) moment, explains a mixture's consistency or texture, or gives the reason for a certain technique. Essentially, inserting that observation line is my way of hovering over you as you bake.

The recipes are written in some detail, so that an act, function, and process—even a basic one—are defined and described. Each recipe concludes with information on removing the sweet from the baking pan and cooling, and, as appropriate, details about storage.

A variation (or two) is included at the end of selected recipes. Some recipes conclude with a line that begins with "For an extra surge of flavor." This last fillip, which is optional, shows you the way to add a burst of taste to a particular sweet. The extra ingredient may be a scented sugar, a flurry of flavored baking chips, or a topping that would enhance the recipe further. Some recipes also end with the line, "For an aromatic top-note of flavor," or with the line "For a textural contrast." A refined, often subtle, top-note of flavor can be added to a batter or dough, for example, in the form of a scented sugar or dash of liqueur; while dispensable, this ingredient would contribute to the over-all taste and flavor aroma of the sweet. And texturally, the crunch of nuts (or splatter of chips) fluttering through a batter or dough would also provide a lively, welcome contrast.

Many recipes contain a note about how long a specific bakery product keeps after baking. The phrase "Freshly baked, the cookies keep for 3 to 4 days" (for example) appears only when the bakery product has sound room-temperature storage life (and can be reheated, as necessary, with good results during that time). For guidance and directions on freezer storage, consult Chapter 23. If the "freshly baked" phrase does not appear at the end of a recipe, plan to use the particular sweet on the day it's made. To keep baked goods at room temperature, store them in an airtight cookie tin or cake keeper. And many recipes conclude with "Best baking advice," a tag line that explains the reason for a certain ingredient, method, or baking strategy.

To bake from this book to its best advantage, be sure to read the introduction to the recipe, which should give you some sense of what to expect: Will the cake be dense or fine-grained and feathery textured? Are the cookies chewy or crispy, thin or chunky? Are the sweet rolls gooey, sticky, and nutty, or are they silky within and topped with a rough and crunchy streusel? Is this a genteel, coffee cake kind of sweet or a mega-chocolate dessert? Then, read through the recipe in its entirety. Preheat the oven, prepare the baking pan, and measure each ingredient as the recipe indicates (allowing enough time for the butter to soften or the chocolate to melt, for example). Set out the important pieces of equipment you'll be using.

Generally, the recipes in this book begin with a batter or dough, but oftentimes include a filling, topping, icing, glaze, or frosting. A multidimensional recipe can be made in stages, with one or more of the elements prepared a day or two ahead of baking. Other recipes can be put together in the time it takes to preheat the oven.

So much of what we use in our daily lives has a consistent, occasionally regimented, almost cookie-cutter style. It's no wonder that we crave a craggy oatmeal cookie, a towering cinnamon bun, or a softly textured slice of chocolate cake, for these are heartening and satisfying. And they look so appealing. Although there's no substitute for the clean lines of an elegant cookie or a beautifully domed loaf cake, the occasional mark of what's handcrafted is welcome in the best of kitchens. While all the recipes in Baking by Flavor are about taste, they also demonstrate good design and sound technique. A luxurious slice of pound cake, a jagged dipping cookie, or a crumbly scone may look a bit rustic, but the natural, genuine quality of each is always seductive.

Table of Contents

Foreword.

Acknowledgments.

Introduction.

PART I: THE ART OF BAKING BY FLAVOR.

1. The Way to Bake by Flavor.

2. An Inventory of Baking Equipment.

3. Creating a Baking Pantry.

4. Craft and Technique.

PART II: THE FLAVORS.

5. Almond.

6. Apricot.

7. Banana.

8. Blueberry.

9. Butter.

10. Buttercrunch.

11. Caramel and Butterscotch.

12. Chocolate.

13. Cinnamon.

14. Coconut.

15. Coffee and Mocha.

16. Ginger.

17. Lemon.

18. Peanut and Peanut Butter.

19. Rum.

20. Spice.

21. Sweet Cheese.

22. Vanilla.

23. About Freezing Baked Goods.

Selected Sources for Equipment and Supplies.

Bibliography.

Index.

Recipe

LEMON-LIME CAKE WITH GLAZED CITRUS THREADS
One 10-inch fluted tube cake, creating 16 slices

Fine, long shreds of glazed lemon and lime peel, glistening and bright, weave through this citrus-spiked butter cake batter. For a keen flavor impact, the baked cake is finished with fresh sweet-sharp glaze (it's actually uncooked) which you brush over the cake when it's released from the baking pan. This cake is sweet and tart, and delicious served with a raspberry or blueberry compote.

Nonstick cooking spray, for preparing the cake pan.

Glazed Lemon and Lime Threads
3 lemons, washed well and dried
1 lime, washed well and dried
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/4 cup water

Lemon-Lime Butter Cake Batter
2-3/4 cups unsifted bleached all-purpose flour
1/3 cup unsifted bleached cake flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 pound (16 tablespoons or 2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
2 cups superfine sugar
1 tablespoon freshly grated lemon rind
2 teaspoons pure lemon extract
4 large eggs
7/8 cup (1 cup less 2 tablespoons) buttermilk, whisked well
2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice

Lemon-Lime Glaze for Brushing on the Warm, Baked Cake
1/4 cup freshly squeezed and strained lemon juice
1/4 cup freshly squeezed and strained lime juice
1/2 cup superfine sugar

Bakeware
10-inch Bundt pan

Make the glazed lemon and lime threads:
Remove the outer peel from each lemon and the lime in thin shreds with a zester, producing fine julienne threads. Place the shreds in a medium-size nonreactive saucepan, cover with 2 inches of cold water, and bring to the boil. Boil for 30 seconds, then pour into a small stainless steel strainer.

Place the granulated sugar and water in a small nonreactive saucepan (preferably enameled cast iron), cover, and cook over low heat until the sugar has dissolved completely. Uncover, add citrus threads and simmer for 5 to 8 minutes, or until the threads look glossy and there is a scant 1 tablespoon of syrup left in the saucepan.

Drain the citrus threads of any syrup, except what clings lightly to them, turn into a small ramekin, and cool completely.

Preheat the oven and prepare the cake pan:
Preheat the oven to 350° F. Film the inside of the Bundt pan with nonstick cooking spray; set aside.

Mix the lemon-lime butter cake batter:
Sift the all-purpose flour, cake flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt onto a sheet of waxed paper.

Cream the butter in the large bowl of a freestanding electric mixer on moderate speed for 3 minutes. Add the superfine sugar in three additions, beating on moderate speed for 1 minute after each portion is added. Beat in the lemon rind and lemon extract. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating for 30 seconds after each addition.

On low speed, alternately add the sifted ingredients in three additions with the buttermilk in two additions, beginning and ending with the sifted mixture. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl frequently to keep the batter even-textured. Blend in the limejuice and cooled, glazed citrus peel.

Scrape the batter into the prepared Bundt pan. Gently shake the pan (once or twice) from side to side to level the top.

Bake and cool the cake:
Bake the cake for 55 minutes to 1 hour, or until risen, set, and a wooden pick inserted in the cake withdraws clean. The baked cake will pull away slightly from the sides and central tube of the baking pan.

Let the cake stand in the pan on a cooling rack for 5 to 8 minutes. Invert the cake onto another cooling rack. Place a sheet of waxed paper under the cooling rack to catch any drips of glaze.

Mix the lemon-lime brushing glaze:
Make the brushing glaze while the cake is cooling in the pan. Combine the lemon juice, lime juice, and sugar in a small nonreactive bowl.

Glaze the hot cake:
Using a 1-inch pastry brush, paint the citrus glaze over the surface of the hot cake, taking care to dampen the sides of the cake as well as the top. Cool completely before slicing and serving. Slicing observation: Use a serrated knife to cut the cake neatly and cleanly.

Freshly baked, the cake keeps for 3 days.

Best Baking Advice:
The glazed citrus threads can be made up to 2 days in advance. Refrigerate the simmered citrus threads in the remaining syrup in a tightly covered, nonreactive storage container, but use them at room temperature.

PEANUT MADNESS CHUNKS
About 27 cookies

These are voluptuous cookies, with generous hunks of candy and roasted peanuts snared in a brown-sugar and vanilla-scented dough. A batch of cookie dough can be made up and refrigerated for up to 3 days (or frozen for a month) before baking, so you can have the cookies freshly baked, when the peanut flavor is at its peak.

Peanut Butter Candy Cookie Dough
Eighteen (.6 ounce each) snack-size milk chocolate peanut butter cups (Reese's Milk Chocolate Peanut Butter Cups), each cup cut into 1/2-inch chunks
1-1/2 cups unsifted all-purpose flour
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/4 teaspoon salt
9 tablespoons (1 stick plus 1 tablespoon) unsalted butter, softened
2 tablespoons shortening
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1/4 cup firmly packed light brown sugar, sieved if lumpy
1 tablespoon creamy (smooth) peanut butter)
1 large egg
1-1/2 pure teaspoons pure vanilla extract
1 cup whole roasted unsalted peanuts

Bakeware
several cookie sheets

Chill the peanut butter candy chunks:
Place the cut-up candy in a bowl and refrigerate for 20 minutes. Candy chilling observation: Refrigerating the chunks of candy will help to keep them intact as they are worked into the cookie dough.

Mix the peanut butter candy cookie dough:
Whisk the flour, cream of tartar, and salt in a small mixing bowl.

Cream the butter and shortening in the large bowl of a freestanding electric mixer on low speed for 2 minutes. Add the granulated sugar and beat for 1 minute on moderate speed. Add the light brown sugar and beat for a minute longer. Beat in the peanut butter and egg. Blend in the vanilla extract. Scrape down the sides of the mixing bowl frequently with a rubber spatula to keep the dough even-textured. On low speed, add the sifted mixture in two additions, beating just until the particles of flour are absorbed. Work in the candy chunks and peanuts, using a wooden spoon or flat wooden paddle. Dough texture observation: The cookie dough will be stiff and chunky with candy and nuts.

Chill the cookie dough:
Cover the bowl with a sheet of plastic wrap and refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes.

Preheat the oven and prepare the cookie sheets:
Preheat the oven to 325° F in advance of baking. Line the cookie sheets with lengths of cooking parchment paper.

Spoon the dough onto the prepared cookie sheets:
Place rounded, lightly domed 2-tablespoon mounds of dough, 3 inches apart, onto the lined cookie sheets, placing about nine mounds to a sheet. For the best shaped cookies, push any chunks of candy that jut out into the cookie dough mound.

Bake and cool the cookies:
Bake the cookies in the preheated oven for 15 to 17 minutes, or until just set, with pale golden edges. Let the cookies stand on the sheets for 1 minute, then remove them to cooling racks, using a wide, offset metal spatula. Cool completely.

Freshly baked, the cookies will keep for 2 to 3 days.

CINNAMON CHIP SCONES WITH CINNAMON-PECAN STREUSEL
10 scones

The endearing baby cinnamon chips look positively charming in these coffee-cake-styled scones. If you wish, 1/4 cup of the chips may also be added to the streusel mixture, making it even more deluxe.

Cinnamon-Pecan Streusel
3/4 cup unsifted bleached all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/3 cup plus 3 tablespoons firmly packed light brown sugar, sieved if lumpy
pinch of salt
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into chunks
3/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
3/4 cup chopped pecans

Cinnamon Chip Scone Dough
3 cups plus 2 tablespoons unsifted bleached all-purpose flour
3-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1/8 teaspoon cream of tartar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1-1/2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
3/4 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon granulated sugar
1/4 pound (8 tablespoons or 1 stick) unsalted butter, cold, cut into chunks, cold
1 tablespoon shortening, cold
1-1/4 cups miniature cinnamon-flavored chips
2/3 cup heavy cream
2 large eggs
2 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Bakeware
2 heavy cookie sheets or rimmed sheet pans

Preheat the oven and prepare the baking sheets:
Preheat the oven to 400° F. Line the cookie sheets or sheet pans with a length of cooking parchment paper. Bakeware observation: The baking sheets must be heavy, or the cinnamon dough will scorch on the bottom as the scones bake. Double-pan the sheets, if necessary.

Mix the cinnamon-pecan streusel:
Thoroughly combine the flour, cinnamon, light brown sugar, and salt in a medium-size mixing bowl. Scatter over the butter chunks and drizzle over the vanilla extract. Using a pastry blender, or two round-bladed table knives, cut the butter into the flour-sugar mixture until reduced to marble-size bits. Scatter over the chopped pecans and mix them in. With your fingertips, work the mixture until moist clumps of streusel are formed, pressing and crumbling it into large and small lumps.

Make the cinnamon chip scone dough:
Whisk the flour, baking powder, cream of tartar, salt, cinnamon, nutmeg, and granulated sugar in a large mixing bowl. Drop in the chunks of butter and tablespoon of shortening. Using a pastry blender, or two round-bladed table knives, cut the fat into the flour until reduced to small nuggets. Further crumble the mixture between your fingertips for 30 seconds to 1 minute. Mix in cinnamon chips.

Whisk the heavy cream, eggs, and vanilla extract in a medium-size mixing bowl. Pour the liquid ingredients over the flour mixture and combine to form the beginnings of a dough using a sturdy wooden spoon or flat wooden spatula. Dough texture observation: At this point the dough will be crumbly. Knead the dough together in the bowl, with your hands until it forms a firm dough, 1 to 2 minutes. If the dough seems very dry, you can add an additional tablespoon of heavy cream, although it should be firm enough to form a stable base for the topping.

Cut the scone dough:
Turn the dough onto a very lightly floured work surface, divide in half and pat each piece into a 6- to 6 1/2-inch round cake. With a chef's knife, cut each cake into five wedges. Cinnamon chip observation: If a chip protrudes from any cut section of the scone dough, just press it back in.

Top the scones with the streusel mixture:
Press some of the streusel topping on top of each triangle of dough, pairing it down with your fingertips or palm of your hand, dividing the topping evenly among all of the scones. Use all of the topping.

Place the scones on the lined cookie sheets, spacing them about 3-1/2 inches apart. Arrange five scones on each sheet.

Bake and cool the scones: Bake the scones for 17 to 18 minutes, or until risen and set. Transfer the scones to cooling racks, using a wide, offset metal spatula. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Freshly baked, the scones will keep for 2 days.

Best Baking Advice:
Press the streusel topping as firmly as possible on top of the unbaked scones without squashing them. If the scones become misshapen, place them on a work surface and plump up the sides with your fingertips.

Copyright © 2002 by Lisa Yockelson.

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