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Product Details
| ISBN-13: | 9780752492797 |
|---|---|
| Publisher: | The History Press |
| Publication date: | 04/01/2013 |
| Sold by: | Barnes & Noble |
| Format: | eBook |
| Pages: | 160 |
| File size: | 2 MB |
| Age Range: | 18 Years |
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A Geezer's Guide to Mullet Maintenance and Combover Care
By Chris Martin
The History Press
Copyright © 2013 Chris MartinAll rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-0-7524-9279-7
CHAPTER 1
A Short History of Hairstyles
You only need to look at the story of Samson and Delilah to see just how important a man's hairstyle can be. In this epic Bible story the famously strong man was stripped of his powers by the loss of his locks. While this cautionary tale has inspired writers, sculptors, composers and screenwriters throughout the ages, Samson's drape is just one of a long list of classic men's hairstyles over the centuries. What follows is a whistle-stop journey through the hairdos that shaped the world of men as we know it.
Ancient World
Having just evolved from apes and with the first professional hairdresser still several centuries away, it is safe to assume that primeval man must have rocked some kind of Shag cut, even though it may have been difficult to distinguish it from the rest of his abundant body hair. As early and primitive societies formed, the first formal hairstyles began to evolve, with men's long unruly hair being tied back with hide bands. However, men soon evolved further to use iron or bronze shears to crudely crop their unruly bangs in an effort to control it. By the time of the Babylonian and Assyrian Empires, men were going further than just cropping and began to deliberately style their hair, growing it long and dyeing it black, as well as creating crimping and curling effects with hot irons to set off their long square beards.
The Ancient Egyptians chose to wear their hair very short and even shaved their heads to deal with the desert heat. Sexually ambiguous members of the royal elite would cover their bald domes with elaborate headdresses and wigs held in place with beeswax and resin. These were cut into short symmetrical shapes or styled into long braids before being adorned with ivory hairpins, flowers or golden ornaments. But by the time of the Golden Age of Greece such gender-bending flamboyance was gone, as the Greeks – with their focus on logic and reason – favoured short, pragmatic haircuts.
Roman Empire
Probably the most famous do of the Roman era was created by the emperor Julius Caesar who wore his hair short, brushed forward from the crown and oiled flat against his scalp. Though the Imperial trim set off a laurel crown delightfully, such Caesar cuts had not always been popular in Ancient Rome. In the early – more austere – days of the Republic, Roman men generally followed simple styles inspired by their Greek forebears. It was in the later years of Imperial Rome that the Romans' narcissism (helped by the fact that they ruled most of the known world) ushered in a whole new age.
Barbering had been introduced to Rome from the Greek colonies of Sicily in 296 BC. Though public barbers were originally used by those who could not afford to keep a slave to cut their hair, the new shops quickly became popular as a venue to catch up on local gossip and political moves in the Senate. As a bonus, these first barbers doubled up as surgeons and dentists, so as well as a haircut and shave, they'd throw in blood-letting, cupping, leeching and even the odd enema. Access to these new (relatively) skilled hairstylists, combined with the wild extravagance of the times, saw the upper classes fashioning elaborate ringlets with curling irons and dusting their hair with coloured powders or – for those committed to the kind of super bling that would put P Diddy to shame – gold dust.
Middle Ages
Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, the Germanic barbarians who overran Europe preferred to focus more on destruction and mayhem than hairdressing. They favoured long, flowing (unwashed) locks and straggly beards – a bit like a nation of psychotic Gandalfs. One ruling family of the barbarian era, the Merovingians, were often referred to as the 'long-haired kings' (Latin reges criniti) as their unchecked hair growth clearly distinguished them from the more civilised Franks, who commonly cut their hair short. These barbarians attached great importance to their hair. How long a man's hair was became a symbol of power and authority, and in battle they tied their tresses in a high Top Knot to appear taller and more terrifying to their short-haired enemies. Indeed, outside of being caught flipping through interior-decoration magazines with his knitting circle, the worst humiliation a barbarian could face was to lose his hair; as a result slaves and war prisoners were routinely shorn to complete their humiliation.
Near the end of the tenth century, the Catholic Church, seeking to curtail the power of the barbarian kings, began to issue edicts against the length of men's hair. Excommunication by Rome meant the loss of a king's authority to rule, so these edicts meant Christian kings had to get a haircut and shave pronto or risk being unseated. The results saw a movement towards shoulder-length hair. This was often neatly rolled at the neck to create the Page Boy style, or for the less fashion conscious (e.g. peasants), cut crudely into a Pudding-basin. The clergy were distinguished in society by the Tonsure, a deeply unflattering shaved patch on the top of the head, designed to mimic Christ's crown of thorns.
Renaissance
The Renaissance was a time of philosophical and cultural revolution across Europe, ushering a new era of scientific endeavour. It also led to a change in hairstyles as freethinkers harked back once more to Ancient Greece and begin to cut their locks off. Legend has it that this trend was further accelerated when Francis I of France accidentally burned off his hair with a torch and his subjects cut their hair shorter in sympathy – usually combining it with a fruity little beard and moustache combo.
But as time went on, men inevitably yearned once again for flamboyance. Hair began to grow longer as dedicated followers of fashion wore long, curled tresses, often oiled and falling over wide, white collars. This style was sometimes accessorised with a single longer lock hanging down the back, tied with a velvet bow.
Super camp monarchism came face to face with stone-face Puritanism during the English Civil War, and such fey beautification understandably became a symbol of division between the warring sides. Followers of Oliver Cromwell decided to crop their hair close to their head as an act of defiance towards the curls and ringlets of the king's men. This led to the Parliamentary faction's New Model Army having better-fitting helmets and to be nicknamed 'Roundheads'.
Louis XIV and the Rise of the Wig
Across the Channel, France was still some years from a revolution of their own and men had no such qualms about going completely poodle with their dos. With the growth of poorly sanitised, plague-ridden cities leaping with nits, it was perhaps inevitable that men would choose to crop their locks and turn to wigs to achieve the bubble perms they craved. Without the requirement to be able to grow their own hair, the shape, styling and sheer size of the wig became a sign of status in seventeenth-century France. King Louis XIV – the Sun King – led the way with his truly extravagant and mind-bogglingly expensive horse-hair constructions. For the next two centuries men adopted wigs as their preferred look, creating a new source of income for designers and manufacturers of such hair pieces. The first wig makers' guild was established in France in 1665. It was a development that was soon copied elsewhere in Europe as the new industry of making, rather than styling hair, flourished.
Regency Era
In the eighteenth century, men's wigs became smaller and more formal, usually an arrangement of strict partings and tight-rolled curls. Men of the day also took to powdering their wigs to give their syrups a distinctive white colour. Increasingly the style of wig a man wore was associated with his profession, with the law, the army, and the navy each having their own style of wig.
But all that powdering and wig care was an expensive and messy business, so by the end of the century, young blades including the soon-to-be American President, George Washington, were simply curling and powdering their own hair to see if anyone noticed the difference. They didn't.
In 1795, the British Government levied a tax on hair powder of 1 guinea per year. This tax effectively caused the end of the wearing of both wigs and powder, as tight-fisted Brits chose to go au naturelle rather than fork out for fashion. By the 1780s the move away from wigs was complete. The reaction against such formality and its associated costs led to the Hérisson (hedgehog) style being adopted; a return to a loose, bushy mass of curls.
It is worth noting that hairdressers – as opposed to barbers – now began to form a distinct profession for the first time. Ironically many of this new breed of hairsmiths had originally trained as wig makers. Most notable was Legros de Rumigny, who became court hairdresser in France and opened an Academie de Coiffure in 1769 to promote the art of hairdressing.
Victorian Era
Freed from the tyranny of powdering their head several times a day, and generally more concerned with commerce, converting baffled natives to Christianity and building gigantic things out of iron, Victorian men spent less time on their hair. Throughout the nineteenth century they kept it relatively short, sometimes curled and usually dressed with macassar oil. Just as in previous austere times, men sought to balance the paucity of opportunity for expression on the top of their heads with a variety of moustaches, sideburns and monstrous spade beards; the author Charles Dickens should receive special credit, both for his contribution to literature and his remarkable Combover.
Twentieth Century
Men's hair in the early part of the twentieth century was generally simple and short. Well-dressed men wore well-groomed styles which were trimmed close to flatter the shape of the head, neatly parted and usually held in place with a generous dollop of Brilliantine. Such styles were created in the newly established men's hairdressing salons that offered a choice of scissor or razor cuts, plus an array of oils and tonics. The Crew Cut was also formalised in this period, when the rowing team at Yale had their hair cut short in an effort to distinguish themselves from members of the university's football team, who wore their hair (relatively) long for extra padding under their leather helmets. Severe haircuts persisted throughout the 1920s, '30s and '40s, not least due to the fact that many men were drafted to serve in the armed forces during the First and Second World Wars.
However, in the 1950s a new kind of rebellious youth culture began to assert itself. Rock 'n' roll icons like James Dean and Elvis Presley made pompadour hairstyles such as the Ducktail popular among wannabe bad boys. Indeed Elvis' hair was so revered that thousands of his fans staged public protests when the US Army cut off the King's hair during his military service. But it was in the 1960s that youth culture really went into overdrive, as nonconformist young men tuned in, turned on and grew their hair long. These new anti-'dos did more than merely compliment a snazzy set of psychedelic clothes; long hair became the cornerstone of the hippie revolution. In short, the rejection of the values inherited from previous generations was expressed through the medium of hair. In 1967 this sentiment was embodied in the first rock opera – simply called Hair.
By the 1970s almost every level of society had adapted their dress and hairstyles to reflect the new liberalism, resulting in Shag Cuts, Feather Cuts, early proto-Mullets and some frankly ill-advised bell-bottom trousers.
Thankfully during the 1980s there was a spring back towards more restrained styles as the new 'yuppies' (young urban professionals) chose more conservative business cuts, focusing instead on size and volume enhanced by blow drying and the generous application of gel or mousse.
Nowadays pretty much anything goes. Advanced hairdressing techniques mean dyeing, curling, straightening and styling are easier than ever before. The result is that there has never been more diversity in the hairstyles worn by all generations. Walk down the street in any large city and you'll see Bowl Cuts and Dreadlocks right next to Quiffs and Bubble perms, as each man makes an individual choice based on personal style, rather than the dictates of society.
CHAPTER 2A GUIDE TO MODERN HAIRSTYLES
AFRO
Think flares. Think medallions. Think purple furs and gold-rimmed glasses. Think chequerboard dance floors that spell a one-night ticket to boogie wonderland. The Afro went from being the preserve of mad scientists and meths-drinking tramps to the height of sophistication during the disco boom of the 1970s. Sometimes shortened to a 'Fro and also known as a Natural, you will need long kinky or curly hair as well as platform boots and a pocket full of 'ludes to pull this off. The hairstyle is created by simply combing the hair away from the scalp, allowing it to extend out from the head in a large, rounded shape, much like a funky halo bestowed by the gods of getting down. This style is usually seen on people of colour but the good news is there's nothing to stop anyone from becoming an undercover brother if they've been blessed with a natural frizz. Then the style is better known as a Jewfro.
* Try to look like Lenny Kravitz
* Try not to look like Phil Spector
BOWL CUT
Synonymous with children leaping with nits, medieval foot soldiers and members of punk band The Ramones, the Bowl Cut is a cheap and easy option for people who don't want to try too hard. Also known as a Pot Cut, Helmet Cut or Mushroom Cut, the Bowl Cut is fashioned by allowing the hair to fall naturally from the crown of the head before cutting it along a horizontal line around the sides and back, to create the impression that someone put a bowl on your head and trimmed your hair around it. It takes its name both from its distinct shape and from the traditional method of creating it (i.e. literally putting a bowl on a person's head). The cut's striking symmetry and unashamed simplicity will appeal to you if you see your head garden as part fashion statement, part practical head gear and part return to childhood, which probably accounts for its recent resurgence among dungaree-wearing, dummy-sucking fans of the rave scene.
* Try to look like Ian Brown from The Stone Roses
* Try not to look like Moe Howard from The Three Stooges
BUZZ CUT
Popular with red necks, ex-military drill sergeants, macho lesbians and working-class children on the first day of a new school term, the Buzz Cut is a no-nonsense, no-style tribute to masculine hairdressing, that tells the world you're both pragmatic and the chances are that you've recently received an ASBO. A Buzz Cut describes any style where the hair is cut aggressively close to the head with electric clippers so that no more than three-quarters of an inch of growth remains on all sides. Also known as the Butch Cut and the Crew Cut, this trim was originally used to stop the spread of lice. It's worth considering a Buzz Cut if you can't afford a decent haircut, or you can't be bothered to decide what haircut you want, or if you just fancy looking like you've been recently featured on Crimewatch. There is one other way to end up with a Buzz Cut: forget to tip your stylist.
* Try to look like Justin Timberlake
* Try not to look like P!nk
CAESAR CUT
Modelled on an ancient bust of Emperor Julius Caesar, the Caesar Cut is a heavily styled creation which harks back to the glorious days of the Roman Empire. The hair is cut short and brushed forward horizontally towards the face before being greased down. Favoured by confused teens, poets and people who have recently suffered a nervous breakdown, the Caesar Cut is a triumph of the use of products over skilful hairdressing, as well as a fast track to an acne-speckled forehead. While you may feel this 'do is reminiscent of marching legions, three-day orgies and brutal gladiatorial action, unless you're over 6ft and built like a brick bathhouse, you'll look more like a Hobbit from Lord of the Rings.
* Try to look like Maximus Decimus Meridius, Commander of the Armies of the North, General of the Felix Legions, loyal servant to the true emperor, Marcus Aurelius
* Try not to look like Frodo Baggins
(Continues...)
Excerpted from A Geezer's Guide to Mullet Maintenance and Combover Care by Chris Martin. Copyright © 2013 Chris Martin. Excerpted by permission of The History Press.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.
Table of Contents
Contents
Title,Introduction,
A Short History of Hairstyles,
Ancient World,
Roman Empire,
Middle Ages,
Renaissance,
Louis XIV and the Rise of the Wig,
Regency Era,
Victorian Era,
Twentieth Century,
A Guide to Modern Hairstyles,
Afro,
Bowl cut,
Buzz cut,
Caesar Cut,
Classic Taper,
Combover,
Cornrows,
Crew Cut,
Curtain Cut,
Dreadlocks,
Ducktail,
Emo,
Mohawk/Fauxhawk,
Flattop,
Liberty Spikes,
Mullet,
Poodle Cut,
Quiff,
Great Hairstyles throughout History,
Albert Einstein,
Andy Warhol,
Oscar Wilde,
Paul McCartney,
Hunter S. Thompson,
'Rowdy' Roddy Piper,
Adolf Hitler,
Bad Hair Day, Every Day: Getting it Wrong,
Avoiding Bad Hair Days,
Top Ten Worst Celebrity Hairstyles,
Quick Fixes for Problem Hair,
In the Salon,
What Makes a Good Haircut?,
How to get the Best out of your Stylist,
A Guide to Men's Hair Products,
How to Have Healthy Hair,
The World of Hairstyles,
Hair Facts,
Hair and Hairstyling Records,
Quotes about Hair,
Ridiculous Names for Hair Salons,
Copyright,