Redwork Winter Twitterings

by Pearl Louise Krush

Overview

Crafters will learn to combine red embroidery floss, red and white fabrics, and simple embroidery stitches to create the sweet designs in this guide. Redwork uses red floss to trace simple line drawings and this book includes more than a dozen unique bird designs. Each twittering bird friend can be embroidered on one of eight featured projects—from a whimsical quilt to a set of tea towels—or added to any item a quilter chooses. Patterns include a Christmas quilt, a table runner, an everyday towel, and an apron.

Product Details

ISBN-13:	9781590123997
Publisher:	Annie's
Publication date:	10/29/2015
Sold by:	Barnes & Noble
Format:	eBook
Pages:	48
File size:	16 MB
Note:	This product may take a few minutes to download.

About the Author

Pearl Louise Krush is the author of Easy Quilting with Denim and Sunbonnet Sue: Once Upon a Posy. She lives in Rapid City, South Dakota.

Read an Excerpt

Redwork Winter Twitterings

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By Pearl Louise Krush

Annie's

Copyright © 2015 Annie's
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-59217-321-1

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CHAPTER 1

Redwork Basics

Redwork embroidery requires a few supplies and some simple instructions. Read through these basics before you select and begin stitching one of the whimsical projects in this book.

Supplies

Fabric

Use good-quality, 100 percent cotton fabrics in your redwork quilts or projects. The projects in this book were made using white and cream tonals, but any white, off-white or cream high-quality cotton fabric can be used.

Pre-washing your fabrics is recommended, but not absolutely necessary. If you choose not to pre-wash, you must test the fabrics to make sure that they are colorfast and won't shrink.

Start by cutting a 2" by fabric width strip of each fabric you have selected for your redwork project; measure and record the width of each strip.

To determine whether the fabric is colorfast, immerse each strip separately into a clean bowl of extremely hot water, or hold the fabric strip under hot running water. If your fabric bleeds a great deal, all is not necessarily lost. You might be able to wash all of that fabric until all of the excess dye has washed out. Fabrics that continue to bleed after they have been washed several times should be eliminated. You do not want the red fabrics bleeding onto the embroidered squares.

To test for shrinkage, iron each saturated strip dry with a hot iron. When the strip is completely dry, measure and compare the size to the original recorded length. If all of your fabric strips shrink about the same amount, then you have no problem. When you wash your finished quilt or project, you may achieve the puckered look of an antique quilt. If you do not want this look, you will have to wash and dry all fabrics before beginning so that shrinkage is no longer a problem. If one of the fabrics shrinks more than the others, it should be eliminated.

Needles

There are several different types and sizes of needles that can be used for embroidery. Sharps — sizes 7–10 — and embroidery needles — sizes 7 and 8 with a longer needle eye for easier threading — are popular. You should choose the size and type of needle you are comfortable with to do your embroidery.

Embroidery Floss

Six-strand cotton embroidery floss was used to embroider the designs in these redwork projects. Work with 1 strand in 18" lengths. You may choose to use 2 strands if you like, especially to stitch the designs on the towels. For the redwork, choose a shade of red such as Anchor 1005 or DMC 498. Be sure the floss you use is guaranteed to be colorfast.

Embroidery Hoops

The best embroidery results are achieved when using an embroidery hoop to hold the fabric taut while stitching. There are several types and sizes of hoops available on the market. Wooden hoops with an adjustable screw are the most common, but there are also spring hoops and the newer Q-snaps. Use the type and size hoop you find most comfortable for embroidering. It is best to use a hoop that is larger than the design you are embroidering, if possible. This helps you avoid having the hoop distort stitches when moved to other areas.

Redwork Embroidery

Tracing the Design

Cut fabric to be embroidered into the size specified with each project's instructions.

Center fabric over the printed design and trace, using a sharp lead pencil or fabric marking pen or pencil. If you use a fabric pen, be sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for proper use. If you cannot see the lines clearly, use a light box for tracing. Remember that the tracing lines should not be visible on the finished project.

Embroidering the Design

Wash your hands before you start hand embroidery to avoid soiling the fabric. Thread floss into needle; do not tie a knot in end.

To begin stitching, come up from the wrong side of the fabric, leaving a 1" tail on the wrong side. Hold the floss end in place so that it is overcast with the first few stitches that are made. Cut the excess floss close to your work when finished.

Another way to begin stitching is to weave floss through several stitches on the wrong side of your work first.

As you embroider separate lines in a close area, it is best to carry the floss across the back as long as the distance is not more than 1". If the lines are more than 1" inch apart, weave the floss through a few stitches on the back side.

Never carry floss across an unworked area. The floss will show through on the finished project.

When finished stitching, weave floss through several stitches on the back side and cut away excess floss.

The Stitches

The stem stitch is the main stitch used to outline redwork designs. To execute the stem stitch, bring the needle up at position A (Figure 1). Hold floss down with the thumb of your non-stitching hand. Reinsert the needle at B and bring up at C, about halfway between A and B. Pull the floss through and continue in this manner with floss held below stitching line and working from left to right.

The backstitch may be used to cover right curves and can also be used to outline the designs if desired.

To execute the backstitch, bring needle up at A (Figure 2), a stitch length away from the beginning of the design line. Stitch back down at B, at the beginning of the line, bring needle up at C, and then stitch back down to meet previous stitch at A. Continue in this manner, working in a right-to-left direction.

The straight stitch (Figure 3) was used to cover small straight lines. Come up at A and down at B. Straight stitches can be done in varying sizes and spaced regularly or irregularly.

French knots (Figure 4) were used for eyes and any other place where a small dot was needed. Bring needle up at A. Wrap floss once around shaft of needle. Insert point of needle at B (close to, but not into A). Hold knot down as you pull needle through to back of fabric.

Finishing the Embroidered Block

When embroidery is completed, you may wash in cool water if soiled. To press, place block face down on a hard, padded surface (ironing board with terry towel works fine); press carefully.

Trim block to measurement specified in individual project instructions, being sure to center the design. To do this, find the approximate center of the design and measure an equal distance to all four sides. For example, if the block is to be cut at 6½" × 6½", measure 3¼" from the center point to each side and trim. A wide acrylic ruler and a rotary cutter will aid in measuring and cutting.

CHAPTER 2

Christmas Twitterings Quilt

This whimsical quilt is filled with redwork motifs that will delight you and your friends when the project is hanging in your home.

Project Specifications

Skill Level: Intermediate

Quilt Size: 36" x 44"

Block Sizes: 3" x 3", 4" x 4", 10" x 6", 8" x 10", 6" x 6", 6" x 9", 6" x 4" and 6" x 8"

Number of Blocks: 6, 36, 1, 2, 2, 2, 2 and 3

Materials

• 1/8 yard 1 red/burgundy tonal

• 6 different red/burgundy fat quarters

• 5 different white/cream fat quarters

• 1 dark cream tonal fat quarter

• ¼ yard red tonal for border

• ½ yard burgundy tonal for binding

• ½ yard each 5 white/cream tonals for embroidery

• Batting 44" x 52"

• Backing 44" x 52"

• All-purpose thread to match fabrics

• Quilting thread

• Red embroidery floss

• Large-eye embroidery needle

• Basic sewing tools and supplies

Completing the Redwork Embroidery

Note:The redwork embroidery is completed on the white/cream yardage before cutting any of the pieces to allow for making the best use of the fabric.

1. Press each white/cream half-yard piece.

2. Mark an embroidery design on one ½-yard fabric piece, beginning 4" from each edge of the fabric and referring to Redwork Basics on page 4 and Figure 1. Mark additional designs on the same fabric, leaving at least 8" between each design, again referring to Figure 1. Note: The remainder of the yardage will be used to cut other pieces later, so it is important to place the design to make the best use of the fabric and still allow excess space all around for trimming to size after embroidery is complete.

3. Repeat step 2 on the remaining half-yard pieces to transfer all designs.

4. Complete the redwork embroidery on all marked pieces, referring to Redwork Basics on page 4.

5. Trim the embroidered designs to the following sizes: A (Snowman and Birdhouses) 8½" x 10½"; D (Bird & Birdhouse on Table, Bird & Birdfeeder and Birds on Chalet) 6½" x 8½"; E (Bird & Pinecone and Birds & Twigs) 6½" x 4½"; F (Bird Houses, Birds on Wreath and Bird Cage) 6½" x 6½"; G (Birds on Twig) 6½" x 10½"; and DD (Birds & Candle and Tree) 6½" x 9½".

6. Remove transfer marks, if necessary.

Cutting

1. Cut two 1 7/8" x 21" strips from one white/cream fat quarter; subcut strips into (16) 1 7/8" Q squares.

2. Cut two 2 3/8" x 21" strips from the same white/cream fat quarter; subcut strips into (12) 2 3/8" H squares.

3. Cut one 1½" x 21" L strip from the same white/cream fat quarter.

4. Cut one 3¼" x 21" strip from the same white/cream fat quarter; subcut strip into six 3¼" S squares.

5. Cut three 1½" x 21" strips from the dark cream fat quarter; subcut strips into two each 8½" B and 12½" C strips and four 1" x 3½" AA strips.

6. Cut one 1½" x 21" strip from the remaining white/cream/dark cream fabrics (fat quarters or yardage); subcut the strip into one matching set of four 1½" x 1½" CC squares and four 1½" x 2½" X rectangles. Repeat to cut a total of 18 sets of CC and X rectangles for Star blocks.

7. Repeat step 6 to cut 18 sets of four 1½" x 1½" CC squares for Connector blocks.

8. Cut two 1 7/8" x 21" strips from one red/burgundy fat quarter; subcut strips into (16) 1 7/8" R squares.

9. Cut two 2 3/8" x 21" strips from the same red/burgundy fat quarter; subcut strips into (12) 2 3/8" I squares.

10. Cut one 1½" x 21" M strip from the same red/burgundy fat quarter.

11. Cut one 3¼" x 21" strip from the same red/burgundy fat quarter; subcut strip into six 3¼" T squares.

12. Cut two 1½" x 26½" V strips and two 1½" x 36½" W strips red tonal.

13. Cut four 2½" by fabric width strips burgundy tonal for binding.

14. Cut six 1½" x 21" strips from the remaining red/burgundy fabrics (yardage and fat quarters); subcut strips into two 10½" J strips, two 17½" K strips, two 7½" N strips, three 6½" P strips and two 2½" U strips.

15. Cut one 2½" x 21" strip from the remaining red/burgundy fabrics; subcut the strip into one matching set of one 2½" Y square and eight 1½" x 1½" BB squares. Repeat to cut a total of 18 sets of Y and BB squares for Star blocks.

16. Cut one matching set of two 2½" x 4½" Z rectangles from remaining red/burgundy fabrics. Repeat to cut a total of 18 sets of Z rectangles for Connector blocks.

17. Cut two 1" x 6½" O strips from the remaining red/burgundy fabrics.

Completing the Four-Patch Units

1. Select the 1½" x 21" L and M strips; join with right sides together along length to make an L-M strip set. Press seam toward M.

2. Subcut the L-M strip set into eight 1½" L-M units as shown in Figure 2.

3. Join two L-M units as shown in Figure 3 to complete a Four-Patch unit; press seam in one direction. Repeat to make a total of four Four-Patch units.

Completing the Pinwheel Blocks

1. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of each H square.

2. Place an H square right sides together with an I square; stitch ¼" on each side of the marked line, referring to Figure 4. Cut apart on the marked line and press I to the right side to complete two H-I units, again referring to Figure 4. Repeat to make a total of 24 H-I units.

3. Join four H-I units as shown in Figure 5 to complete one Pinwheel block; press seam in one direction. Repeat to make a total of six Pinwheel blocks.

Completing the Star Blocks

1. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of all BB squares.

2. To complete one Star block, select eight BB squares and one Y square from one red fabric and four CC squares and four X rectangles from one white/cream fabric.

3. Place a BB square on one end of one X rectangle and stitch on the marked line as shown in Figure 6; trim seam to ¼" and press BB to the right side, again referring to Figure 6.

4. Repeat step 3 with BB on the opposite end of X to complete a BB-X unit as shown in Figure 7.

5. Repeat steps 3 and 4 to make a total of four BB-X units

6. Sew a BB-X unit to opposite sides of Y as shown in Figure 8; press seams toward Y.

7. Sew a CC square to each end of each remaining BB-X unit to complete a BB-CC-X row as shown in Figure 9; press seams toward CC.

8. Sew a BB-CC-X row to opposite sides of the BB-X-Y row to complete one Star block, referring to Figure 10; press seams in one direction.

9. Repeat Steps 2–8 to complete a total of 18 Star blocks.

Completing the Connector Blocks

1. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of all remaining CC squares.

2. Select two matching Z rectangles and four matching CC squares.

3. Sew the CC squares to two opposite corners of Z as in steps 3 and 4 in Completing the Star Blocks and referring to Figure 11 to complete a CC-Z unit.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make a total of 36 CC-Z units.

5. Select two matching CC-Z units and join as shown in Figure 12, to complete one Connector block; press seam in one direction. Repeat to make a total of 18 Connector blocks.

Completing the S-T Sashing Strips

1. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of each S square.

2. Place a marked S square right sides together with a T square and sew ¼" on each side of the marked line as shown in Figure 13; cut apart on the marked line, open and press with seam toward T. Repeat with all S and T squares to make a total of 12 units.

3. Place two units right sides together with opposite fabrics touching as shown in Figure 14; draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the top unit across the previous seam, again referring to Figure 14.

4. Sew ¼" on each side of the marked line as shown in Figure 15; cut apart on the marked line and press units open to reveal two S-T units, again referring to Figure 15.

5. Repeat steps 2–4 to complete a total of 12 S-T units.

6. Join three S-T units to make an S-T sashing strip as shown in Figure 16; press seams in one direction. Repeat to make a total of four S-T sashing strips.

Completing the Q-R Sashing Strips

1. Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on the wrong side of each Q square.

2. Place a marked Q square right sides together with an R square; stitch ¼" on each side of the marked line as shown in Figure 17; cut apart on the marked line and press open with seam toward R to complete one Q-R unit, again referring to Figure 17.

3. Repeat step 2 to complete a total of 32 Q-R units.

4. Join 16 Q-R units to make a Q-R sashing strip as shown in Figure 18; press seams in one direction. Repeat to make two Q-R sashing strips.

Completing the Quilt

1. Sew B to the top and bottom and C to opposite long sides of the Snowman block; press seams toward B and C strips.

2. Join three Pinwheel blocks with two AA strips to make a pinwheel row as shown in Figure 19; press seam toward AA strips. Repeat to make two pinwheel rows.

3. Sew a pinwheel row to the top and bottom of the center A-B-C unit; press seams away from the pinwheel row.

4. Sew J to the top and bottom of the pieced unit and add the Birds on Twig block and Birdhouses block to complete the center vertical row as shown in Figure 20; press seams toward J strips.

5. Sew a Four-Patch unit to one end of two S-T rows to make S-T/Four-Patch rows as shown in Figure 21; press seams toward the Four-Patch units. Repeat with the remaining S-T rows, adding a U piece to the opposite end of each row to make two S-T-U/Four-Patch rows, again referring to Figure 21; press seams away from the S-T rows.

6. Sew an S-T/Four-Patch row to the right-side edge of the Birds on Chalet block and the left-side edge of the Bird & Bird Feeder block as shown in Figure 22; press seams toward the blocks.

(Continues...)

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Excerpted from Redwork Winter Twitterings by Pearl Louise Krush. Copyright © 2015 Annie's. Excerpted by permission of Annie's.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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Table of Contents

Contents

Redwork Basics,
Christmas Twitterings Quilt,
Twitter Friends Together,
Simply Charming Sewing Set,
A Towel for Every Day,
Bird Feeder Apron,
Candlelight Table Runner,