Read an Excerpt
The Gourmet Mexican Kitchenâ"A Cookbook
Bold Flavors for the Home Chef
By Shannon Bard, Ted Axelrod Page Street Publishing Co.
Copyright © 2015 Shannon Bard
All rights reserved.
ISBN: 978-1-62414-105-8
CHAPTER 1
Fundamentos de México
INGREDIENTS, EQUIPMENT AND TECHNIQUES
If you've ever had the good fortune to visit a market in Mexico, you know that Mexico is virtually a cornucopia of ingredients. The Mexican open-air markets are overflowing with different kinds of chiles, nuts, seeds, fresh fish and produce as far as the eye can see.
These varieties of ingredients are what help make Mexican cuisine so unique. Luckily today as the palates of the world expand, so does the availability of international products here in the US. My jaw no longer drops to the floor when I see an entire aisle dedicated to Latin ingredients at my local grocery store. As a farmer's daughter, I also realize the importance of buying local products whenever possible and encourage you to do so when you can. The grocers are not the only ones increasing the number of Mexican products available; local farmers' markets throughout the country have expanded their crops to include produce such as tomatillos, jalapeños and squash blossoms.
In this section, I have listed ingredients that are mentioned throughout the cookbook that make a vital difference in the final flavor outcome of a dish. I've tried to list substitutions whenever possible, but at times, there simply are no suitable substitutions. I've also tried to only list the items that you may not be familiar with, and I have not created an enormous list of ingredients, as the vast array of Mexican ingredients is so large that entire books have been dedicated to them.
Many of the techniques listed are not dissimilar to those used in American kitchens. Roasting ingredients without oil (dry roasting) is an essential technique that imparts a slightly charred flavor and intensifies the taste of the vegetables. If you try only one technique in this book, that's the one that I suggest you try, as it could change the way you cook from now on.
The equipment necessary in Mexican cooking does not include elaborate, expensive tools. Cooking should be enjoyable, so if you do not have a tool listed, use what you have on hand to get the job done. If you don't have a molcajete, use a blender. After all, the molcajete is sometimes referred to as the "Mexican blender." The flavor outcome will be slightly different, but in the end, that is a small price to pay to keep your sanity and enjoy your time in the kitchen.
Anchiote Paste
Achiote paste, also called recado rojo, is a thick, deep red seasoning blend that is popular in the Yucatán region of Mexico. It is an essential ingredient in cochinita pibil but can also be used as a seasoning rub for pork, chicken or seafood. You can find achiote paste in Latin markets or in the Latin section of your gourmet grocery store. It is also very simple to make it yourself if you are feeling ambitious or can't find it anywhere.
Recado Rojo
ACHIOTE PASTE
YIELD: ½ CUP (115 G)
5 tbsp (50 g) annatto seeds
1 cup (240 ml) warm water
1 tsp cumin, ground
1 tsp dried oregano, preferably Mexican
5 cloves, whole
1 tbsp (8 g) black peppercorns
6 allspice berries
1 tbsp (15 g) salt
8 garlic cloves, peeled
1 habanero chile, seeded
¼ cup (60 ml) orange juice, preferably freshly squeezed
¼ cup (60 ml) white vinegar
2 lemons, juiced
2 tsp (10 ml) Herradura Silver tequila
Place the annatto seeds in the warm water and soak for 15 minutes to allow the seeds to soften slightly. Drain the seeds and place them in a coffee or spice grinder along with the cumin, oregano, cloves, peppercorns, allspice berries and salt. Grind the mixture to a fine powder.
Place the garlic, habanero, orange juice, white vinegar, lemon juice and ground spice mixture in a blender and blend for 2 minutes, or until you have a smooth paste. Add the tequila and blend on high speed for another 30 seconds.
Remove the mixture from the blender and refrigerate in an airtight container until ready to use.
Agave Nectar
Agave nectar, also referred to as agave syrup or aguamiel in Mexico, is used as a sweetener in a variety of sauces and drinks. It is slightly sweeter than honey and it's produced from several species of agave, including the blue agave, the plant from which tequila is made.
You can find agave nectar in the baking section of your local grocery store.
Canela
Canela, or Mexican cinnamon, has a flavor much more mellow and subtle than the typical cinnamon found in the US. It's also flakier and softer, which makes it much easier to grind for sauces.
Mexican cinnamon is used in a variety of sweet and savory dishes, and it's an essential ingredient in many moles. You can buy it at many Latin markets or order it online. If you can't find Mexican cinnamon, substitute 1 teaspoon of ground cinnamon for 1 Mexican cinnamon stick.
Cheese
QUESO CHIHUAHUA
Queso Chihuahua is a soft, white cheese that melts easily and is excellent in enchiladas or queso fundido. It is named after the Mexican state of Chihuahua, where it's from.
If you can't find queso Chihuahua, substitute Monterey Jack.
QUESO COTIJA
Queso cotija is a white, semi-firm, aged cheese that has a slightly salty flavor. Depending on the firmness, it is often grated or crumbled on top of dishes and salads.
Look for it in Latin markets or gourmet grocery stores. Substitute with Parmesan if necessary.
QUESO FRESCO
Queso fresco literally means "fresh cheese," and is a soft cheese with a mild, tangy flavor. It is most often found crumbled on top of soups and other dishes. It has become more common in the US and can be found in many Latin and gourmet grocery stores, or ordered online.
Feel free to substitute queso fresco for a mild feta cheese.
QUESO OAXACA
Queso Oaxaca is a type of cheese found in Mexico named after the southern state of Oaxaca, where it first originated. It has a close resemblance to mozzarella and is a great melting cheese, perfect for quesadillas.
If you can't find queso Oaxaca, substitute mozzarella.
Chiles, Dried
ANCHO
The ancho chile is the dried version of the poblano. It is about 4–5 inches (10–13 cm) long and has a deep reddish color, flat wrinkled skin and a heart shape. Its flavor is sweet with a fruity complexity.
The ancho chile can be used whole and stuffed to make a relleno, or rehydrated and ground to make moles and other sauces.
Because of its unique flavor, there are really no suitable substitutions for the ancho chile. You can find it in many Latin grocery stores or order it online.
CHILE DE ÁRBOL
The chile de árbol is a long, red, slender chile ranging in length from 2–3 inches (5–7.6 cm). It is related to the cayenne pepper and is very hot. The chile de árbol is readily available and great for sauces, salsas and soups.
Substitute cayenne pepper if you can't find chile de árbol.
CHIPOTLE
The chipotle chile is a smoke-dried jalapeño that has an intense heat and a complex, smoky flavor. Dried chipotles need to be rehydrated prior to use.
The most common way to find the chipotle chile today is canned and packed in an adobo sauce of tomatoes, vinegar, garlic and salt. Look for them in the Latin section of most grocery stores.
Any leftover chipotle chiles can be stored in an airtight container and refrigerated for up to 2 weeks.
GUAJILLO
Guajillo chiles are one of the most popular dried chiles in the US today and one of my absolute favorites. They are approximately 5–7 inches (13–18 cm) long with a shiny red skin. They have a sweet, unique, earthy flavor with a moderate heat level.
Guajillo chiles are most often pureed for salsas and moles.
They can be found at many Latin markets or ordered online.
MULATO
The mulato chile is a variety of the dried poblano and has a brown-black color with a wrinkled, prune-like skin. It has a mild taste with an almost chocolate-tobacco flavor.
The mulato chile is most often used in moles.
PASILLA
The pasilla chile, sometimes known as chile negro, is a dried chilaca chile. It is generally 6–8 inches (15–20 cm) long and narrow, with a shiny black skin. It has a rich, complex flavor with a slight hint of acidity and fairly hot heat intensity.
The pasilla is a very versatile pepper and can be stuffed or used in sauces and adobos.
Chiles, Fresh
HABANERO
Habanero chiles are small, extremely hot peppers that can range in color from green to orange to red. The oil from the habanero can be extremely painful if you get it in your eyes, so you should always wear gloves when handling them.
Today, habanero peppers can be easily found at most grocery stores. Substitute with serrano chiles if you are looking for a little less heat.
JALAPEÑO
The jalapeño is a medium-sized chile with varying levels of heat. Many think of the jalapeño as a hot pepper, but the heat can range from mild to very hot depending on how it is grown. If you are looking for more heat, be sure to leave the seeds in, as that is where the majority of the heat is.
Jalapeños are arguably the most common chile today; you can easily find them in Latin markets and your local grocery store.
POBLANO
Poblano chiles have a dark green exterior and an almost triangular shape and are relatively mild. They can be eaten raw but are often stuffed to make chile rellenos.
Poblanos can be found in the produce section of most grocery stores, but the Anaheim chile can be substituted if necessary.
SERRANO
The serrano chile is a thin, green pepper that is slightly smaller but much hotter than the jalapeño. It is great in salsas and guacamoles.
Serrano chiles are relatively easy to find at most grocery stores, but feel free to substitute jalapeños if desired.
Chorizo
Mexican chorizo is a fresh sausage made from ground fatty pork and seasonings. Don't confuse soft Mexican chorizo with dried, hard Spanish chorizo, as they are two completely different products. Most Mexican chorizo is red, although there are versions that are green and made with tomatillos.
Chorizo is a versatile ingredient and it's used in dishes like tacos, queso fundido and tortas. To cook it, the outside casing is removed and the ground meat is sautéed similarly to ground beef.
Mexican chorizo can be found in the refrigerated section of Latin or gourmet grocery stores or made at home.
Chorizo de Mexicana
MEXICAN FRESH SAUSAGE
YIELD: APPROXIMATELY 1½ POUNDS (675 G)
5 whole black peppercorns
3 whole cloves
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp dried oregano, preferably Mexican
½ tsp dried thyme
2 tsp (5 g) paprika
2 tsp (10 g) salt
2 dried ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, dry roasted and rehydrated (here)
1 dried guajillo chile, stemmed, seeded, dry roasted and rehydrated (here)
1 dried chipotle chile, stemmed, seeded, dry roasted and rehydrated (here)
1 chile de árbol, stemmed, seeded, dry roasted and rehydrated (here)
2 garlic cloves
3 tbsp (45 ml) apple cider vinegar
1 lb (450 g) fatty pork (I prefer pork shoulder), coarsely ground
Place the peppercorns, whole cloves, cinnamon, oregano, thyme, paprika and salt in a blender and blend until the peppercorns and cloves are completely crushed.
Add the rehydrated chiles to the blended spice mixture, along with the garlic and apple cider vinegar. Blend for 1 minute. If necessary, feel free to add up to ½ cup (120 ml) of water to the mixture to ensure that it is thoroughly blended.
Place the ground pork in a large, nonreactive bowl and top with the blended spice mixture. Using a large wooden spoon or your hands, thoroughly mix the pork and spices.
Cover the bowl tightly with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 12–24 hours to allow the flavors to combine. Freeze or refrigerate until use.
Note: The chorizo must be cooked thoroughly prior to being eaten.
Corn Husks
Corn husks are the papery, dried exterior of an ear of corn. They are used primarily for wrapping tamales. Prior to use, corn husks need to be soaked in warm water for 30 minutes to make them more pliable.
You can find corn husks at many well-stocked Latin markets or grocery stores, or purchase them online. Banana leaves can be substituted if necessary, but the flavor will be slightly different in the end product.
Mexican Crema
Mexican crema is the Mexican version of crème fraîche. Like crème fraîche, it is different than sour cream with a slightly tangier, softer flavor. Mexican crema is used in a variety of sauces and can also be used to top various dishes. You can find it at Latin markets and well-stocked gourmet stores, or better yet, make it yourself. Crème fraîche can be substituted if necessary.
Crema de Mexicana
MEXICAN CREMA
YIELD: 1 CUP (240 ML)
1 cup (240 ml) heavy cream, unpasteurized if available
3 tbsp (45 ml) buttermilk with active cultures
Place the heavy cream in a heavy-bottomed saucepan and cook over medium heat until the temperature reaches 95°F (35°C). If the temperature is too hot and exceeds 100°F (37.8°C), you run the risk of killing the active cultures in the buttermilk.
Remove the cream from the heat and slowly stir in the buttermilk. Place the mixture in a glass jar and top with the lid, leaving it slightly ajar. Place the mixture in a warm location and allow to rest undisturbed for 12–24 hours.
After the allotted time period, stir the mixture, tightly cover it and refrigerate for an additional 12–24 hours until it has thickened.
Herbs
EPAZOTE
Epazote is an herb originally native to Mexico but is now grown throughout the US. It is used to season a variety of dishes, including beans, soups, salads and even quesadillas. Epazote can be found both dried and fresh in many Latin markets and gourmet grocery stores. If available, the fresh option is always best.
Epazote has a distinct flavor that cannot be replaced with any other herb. If you do not have epazote, leave the herb out rather than trying to find a substitute.
MEXICAN OREGANO
Mexican oregano is an aromatic used in a variety of dishes throughout Mexico. There are countless varieties available in various regions of the country. Although it shares the basic pungent flavor of Mediterranean oregano, it has a slight citrus, licorice flavor.
Mexican oregano is available in Latin markets or it can be ordered online.
Masa
Masa is corn dough made from dried corn and lime. It is used in an array of items, including tortillas, quesadillas and sopes. If you are lucky enough to live near a tortilleria, you can buy it fresh. For those who don't have access to fresh masa, it can be made using masa harina and water. Masa harina comes in a bag similar to flour and is widely available in Latin markets and most grocery stores.
Nopales
Nopales are the pads of the prickly pear cactus. They can be eaten raw or cooked; however, the thorns need to be removed with a paring knife prior to cooking them. They have a light, salty flavor. When preparing, be careful not to overcook, as this will cause them to have a slimy texture.
Nopales are available in the produce section of many Latin markets and in some well-stocked grocery stores. When purchasing, look for fresh, firm nopales with a vibrant green color.
Pepitas
Pepitas, or pumpkin seeds, are the hulled green seeds from a variety of pumpkins. They add flavor and texture to many dishes and are often used as a thickener in moles.
Look for pepitas in Latin markets, health food stores and grocery stores.
Piloncillo
Piloncillo, also called panela, is made from pure, unrefined sugar that is pressed into a cone shape. Piloncillo is similar to brown sugar but with a much more pronounced molasses and sweet caramel taste. The cones are very hard and need to be cut with a serrated knife, or if necessary, broken into small pieces using a hammer.
You can find piloncillo at most Latin markets or substitute it for brown sugar.
(Continues...)
Excerpted from The Gourmet Mexican Kitchenâ"A Cookbook by Shannon Bard, Ted Axelrod. Copyright © 2015 Shannon Bard. Excerpted by permission of Page Street Publishing Co..
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
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