The Origins of Banana-Fibre Cloth in the Ryukyus, Japan

Studia Anthropologica 12The Japanese word bashofu literally means "banana-fiber cloth." Both the cloth and the clothing made from it are now considered important constituents of Okinawan identity. The Japanese Folk Craft Movement in the 1930s brought attention to this special trait of Okinawan material culture. After years of decline following World War II, the weaving and use of bashofu saw a revival that accelerated after the return of Okinawa to Japan in 1972 and still continues. Although today bashofu receives considerable attention because of its status since 1974 as one of Japan's important intangible cultural properties, its origins and history had remained hidden. In this book Katrien Hendrickx searches for the origins of bashofu in the Ryukyus, including the origins of ito basho, the plant that provides the raw material, and studies the yarn-making methods and weaving techniques. She also focuses on why and how the Ryukyuan people adopted those techniques and introduced them into their own society. By careful analysis of all available sources, considered from viewpoints from fields as various as pure history, phytohistory, philology, ethnography, and folklore, Hendrickx convincingly proves that bashofu was introduced in the Ryukyus from Southern China, and not from Southeast Asia as is commonly argued. Her overview of present-day bashofu-weaving and its use also provides valuable insights into the situation of folk-craft within Okinawan society during the second half of the twentieth century and up to the present day.

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The Origins of Banana-Fibre Cloth in the Ryukyus, Japan

Studia Anthropologica 12The Japanese word bashofu literally means "banana-fiber cloth." Both the cloth and the clothing made from it are now considered important constituents of Okinawan identity. The Japanese Folk Craft Movement in the 1930s brought attention to this special trait of Okinawan material culture. After years of decline following World War II, the weaving and use of bashofu saw a revival that accelerated after the return of Okinawa to Japan in 1972 and still continues. Although today bashofu receives considerable attention because of its status since 1974 as one of Japan's important intangible cultural properties, its origins and history had remained hidden. In this book Katrien Hendrickx searches for the origins of bashofu in the Ryukyus, including the origins of ito basho, the plant that provides the raw material, and studies the yarn-making methods and weaving techniques. She also focuses on why and how the Ryukyuan people adopted those techniques and introduced them into their own society. By careful analysis of all available sources, considered from viewpoints from fields as various as pure history, phytohistory, philology, ethnography, and folklore, Hendrickx convincingly proves that bashofu was introduced in the Ryukyus from Southern China, and not from Southeast Asia as is commonly argued. Her overview of present-day bashofu-weaving and its use also provides valuable insights into the situation of folk-craft within Okinawan society during the second half of the twentieth century and up to the present day.

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The Origins of Banana-Fibre Cloth in the Ryukyus, Japan

The Origins of Banana-Fibre Cloth in the Ryukyus, Japan

by Katrien Hendrickx
The Origins of Banana-Fibre Cloth in the Ryukyus, Japan

The Origins of Banana-Fibre Cloth in the Ryukyus, Japan

by Katrien Hendrickx

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Overview

Studia Anthropologica 12The Japanese word bashofu literally means "banana-fiber cloth." Both the cloth and the clothing made from it are now considered important constituents of Okinawan identity. The Japanese Folk Craft Movement in the 1930s brought attention to this special trait of Okinawan material culture. After years of decline following World War II, the weaving and use of bashofu saw a revival that accelerated after the return of Okinawa to Japan in 1972 and still continues. Although today bashofu receives considerable attention because of its status since 1974 as one of Japan's important intangible cultural properties, its origins and history had remained hidden. In this book Katrien Hendrickx searches for the origins of bashofu in the Ryukyus, including the origins of ito basho, the plant that provides the raw material, and studies the yarn-making methods and weaving techniques. She also focuses on why and how the Ryukyuan people adopted those techniques and introduced them into their own society. By careful analysis of all available sources, considered from viewpoints from fields as various as pure history, phytohistory, philology, ethnography, and folklore, Hendrickx convincingly proves that bashofu was introduced in the Ryukyus from Southern China, and not from Southeast Asia as is commonly argued. Her overview of present-day bashofu-weaving and its use also provides valuable insights into the situation of folk-craft within Okinawan society during the second half of the twentieth century and up to the present day.


Product Details

ISBN-13: 9789058676146
Publisher: Leuven University Press
Publication date: 11/01/2007
Series: Studia Anthropologica Series
Pages: 336
Product dimensions: 6.20(w) x 9.40(h) x 0.90(d)

Table of Contents

Foreword     5
Acknowledgments     7
Table of contents     9
List of illustrations     15
Explanatory note     19
Writing and transcription systems     19
About the Ryukyuan language     20
Definition of terms     21
Introduction     23
Previous research and the current state of knowledge regarding bashofu     24
Purpose of this study     27
Research methods     28
Contents and scope of fieldwork and technical experience     29
Organisation of this study     30
Historical background
The Ryukyu Archipelago     35
Geographical location     35
Climatic characteristics and flora     36
Outline of the history of Ryukyu/Okinawa and presentation of sources     37
The Ryukyu Archipelago in Pre-history     37
Old Ryukyu     38
The Gusuku period     38
The establishment of the kingdom of Ryukyu     40
The Great Trading Era     42
Ryukyu in Early Modern Times (1609 - 1879)     43
Satsuma's invasion of Ryukyu     43
The rule of Shimazu     44
Chuzan seikan, the first Ryukyuanhistory     45
Awakening of Ryukyuan self-consciousness     47
Development of Ryukyuan historiography     48
Internal transition in early modern Ryukyu     49
The Sakishima Islands after the Satsuma invasion     50
Foreign scholarly treatises on early modern Ryukyu     52
Western interest in the Ryukyu Archipelago     55
The Amami Islands in the middle of the 19th century     56
The abolition of the kingdom of Ryukyu (Ryukyu shobun [characters not reproducible])     57
Okinawa in Modern Times (1879 - 1945)     58
The Taisho period: the rise of a new generation of native scholars     59
Pre-war Okinawa and the Japan Folk Craft Association     61
The battle of Okinawa     62
After World War II     63
U.S. military control (1945 - 1972) and the reversion of Okinawa to Japan     63
Measures for the promotion and development of Okinawa     64
Conclusion     65
Review of sources
Sources regarding weaving and dyeing in the Ryukyu Archipelago     69
The earliest written sources on Ryukyuan clothing and weaving     69
Textile fibres in Ryukyuan weaving history     76
Ramie     77
Nomenclature and morphology      77
Textual evidence     78
Ito basho     81
Nomenclature and morphology     81
Textual evidence     83
Silk     88
Nomenclature and morphology     88
Textual evidence     89
Cotton     91
Nomenclature and morphology     91
Textual evidence     92
Sources regarding bashofu in the Ryukyu Archipelago     95
Ryukyuan sources on the beginning of banana-fibre weaving in Ryukyu     95
What kind of textile may 'seijuku kafu' have been?     97
Sources in which 'seijuku kafu' appeared     100
Sources related to the use of bashofu and ito basho     102
Bashofu in diplomatic relationships     103
Bashofu in clothing     106
Bashofu as court garment     106
Bashofu as garment for commoners     112
Particular uses of ito basho and bashofu     116
Bashofu and ito basho as tax payment     116
Bashofu during rites of passage     118
Bashofu on the market     122
Paper made of banana fibre     126
Sources related to the production of bashofu     126
The "Basha nagare" ballad      127
Textual evidence for the weaving process     130
Preliminary tasks     130
Weaving     140
Woven patterns     144
The finishing of superior bashofu     145
Colours, dyes and dyed patterns     147
Conclusion     153
Musa-fibre weaving in East and Southeast Asia
Existing theories on the origins of ito basho and banana-fibre weaving in Ryukyu     157
The introduction of ito basho into Ryukyu from a phytohistorical viewpoint     159
Sources on Musa-fibre weaving in East and Southeast Asia     161
The Philippine Islands     162
Chinese sources related to Philippine Musa-fibre weaving     163
Western sources on Philippine Musa-fibre weaving     165
The term abaca in Western sources     167
Abaca cloth as annual tribute     168
The 'Manila hemp' boom of the 19th and early 20th centuries     169
'Manila hemp' and the Japanese in Davao     171
The decline of 'Manila hemp'     172
Abaca garments in Mindanao since the late 19th century     172
The production of Musa-fibre cloth in the Philippines     173
Musa species used for cloth-making     173
Preparation of textile fibre gathered from Musa species      175
Yarn-making of abaca fibre     176
Dye sources used for abaca cloth     177
The weaving process: loom and techniques     178
Post-weaving (finishing) treatments of abaca cloth     179
Malaysia     179
Brief outline of Malay textile production throughout history     179
Indonesia     181
Main materials used in Indonesian textile weaving     181
Musa-fibre weaving in Indonesia     183
Taiwan     184
Textile weaving in Taiwan     185
About Musa-fibre weaving in Taiwan     185
Southern China     186
Textile materials in China     186
Textual evidence of Musa-fibre weaving in Southern China     187
Early written sources on Musa species used as textile material in Southern China     188
Sources related to the processing of Musa fibre into yarn     189
Early sources indicating places of Musa-fibre weaving in China     191
Conclusion     195
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