A Tortilla Is Like Life: Food and Culture in the San Luis Valley of Colorado

Located in the southern San Luis Valley of Colorado, the remote and relatively unknown town of Antonito is home to an overwhelmingly Hispanic population struggling not only to exist in an economically depressed and politically marginalized area, but also to preserve their culture andtheir lifeways. Between 1996 and 2006, anthropologist Carole Counihan collected food-centered life histories from nineteen Mexicanas-Hispanic American women-who had long-standing roots in the Upper Rio Grande region. The interviews in this groundbreaking study focused on southern Colorado Hispanicfoodways-beliefs and behaviors surrounding food production, distribution, preparation, and consumption.

In this book, Counihan features extensive excerpts from these interviews to give voice to the women of Antonito and highlight their perspectives. Three lines of inquiry are framed: feminist ethnography, Latino cultural citizenship, and Chicano environmentalism. Counihan documents how Antonito's Mexicanasestablish a sense of place and belonging through their knowledge of land and water and use this knowledge to sustain their families and communities. Women play an important role by gardening, canning, and drying vegetables; earning money to buy food; cooking; and feeding family, friends, and neighbors on ordinary and festive occasions. They use food to solder or break relationships and to express contrasting feelings of harmony and generosity, or enmity and envy. The interviews in this book reveal that these Mexicanas are resourceful providers whose food work contributes to cultural survival.

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A Tortilla Is Like Life: Food and Culture in the San Luis Valley of Colorado

Located in the southern San Luis Valley of Colorado, the remote and relatively unknown town of Antonito is home to an overwhelmingly Hispanic population struggling not only to exist in an economically depressed and politically marginalized area, but also to preserve their culture andtheir lifeways. Between 1996 and 2006, anthropologist Carole Counihan collected food-centered life histories from nineteen Mexicanas-Hispanic American women-who had long-standing roots in the Upper Rio Grande region. The interviews in this groundbreaking study focused on southern Colorado Hispanicfoodways-beliefs and behaviors surrounding food production, distribution, preparation, and consumption.

In this book, Counihan features extensive excerpts from these interviews to give voice to the women of Antonito and highlight their perspectives. Three lines of inquiry are framed: feminist ethnography, Latino cultural citizenship, and Chicano environmentalism. Counihan documents how Antonito's Mexicanasestablish a sense of place and belonging through their knowledge of land and water and use this knowledge to sustain their families and communities. Women play an important role by gardening, canning, and drying vegetables; earning money to buy food; cooking; and feeding family, friends, and neighbors on ordinary and festive occasions. They use food to solder or break relationships and to express contrasting feelings of harmony and generosity, or enmity and envy. The interviews in this book reveal that these Mexicanas are resourceful providers whose food work contributes to cultural survival.

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A Tortilla Is Like Life: Food and Culture in the San Luis Valley of Colorado

A Tortilla Is Like Life: Food and Culture in the San Luis Valley of Colorado

by Carole M. Counihan
A Tortilla Is Like Life: Food and Culture in the San Luis Valley of Colorado

A Tortilla Is Like Life: Food and Culture in the San Luis Valley of Colorado

by Carole M. Counihan

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Overview

Located in the southern San Luis Valley of Colorado, the remote and relatively unknown town of Antonito is home to an overwhelmingly Hispanic population struggling not only to exist in an economically depressed and politically marginalized area, but also to preserve their culture andtheir lifeways. Between 1996 and 2006, anthropologist Carole Counihan collected food-centered life histories from nineteen Mexicanas-Hispanic American women-who had long-standing roots in the Upper Rio Grande region. The interviews in this groundbreaking study focused on southern Colorado Hispanicfoodways-beliefs and behaviors surrounding food production, distribution, preparation, and consumption.

In this book, Counihan features extensive excerpts from these interviews to give voice to the women of Antonito and highlight their perspectives. Three lines of inquiry are framed: feminist ethnography, Latino cultural citizenship, and Chicano environmentalism. Counihan documents how Antonito's Mexicanasestablish a sense of place and belonging through their knowledge of land and water and use this knowledge to sustain their families and communities. Women play an important role by gardening, canning, and drying vegetables; earning money to buy food; cooking; and feeding family, friends, and neighbors on ordinary and festive occasions. They use food to solder or break relationships and to express contrasting feelings of harmony and generosity, or enmity and envy. The interviews in this book reveal that these Mexicanas are resourceful providers whose food work contributes to cultural survival.


Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780292782440
Publisher: University of Texas Press
Publication date: 01/01/2010
Series: Louann Atkins Temple Women & Culture Series
Sold by: Barnes & Noble
Format: eBook
File size: 2 MB

About the Author

CAROLE M. COUNIHAN is Professor of Anthropology at Millersville University in Pennsylvania. She is the author of Around the Tuscan Table: Food, Family, and Gender in Twentieth Century Florence and the co-editor of the scholarly journal Food and Foodways.

Table of Contents

Preface xiii

Acknowledgments xv

Chapter 1 "I Did Do Something": Food-Centered Life Histories in Antonito, Colorado 3

Why Antonito

Methodology: Food-Centered Life Histories and Testimonios

History of Antonito

Antonito Today

Study Participants

The Ethnographic Process

Helen Ruybal and Carole Counihan on Ethnography

Conclusion

Chapter 2 "The Stereotypes Have to Be Broken": Identity and Ethnicity in Antonito 22

Antonito: An Insider/Outsider Perspective

Janice DeHerrera on Antonito

Language and Education, Spanish and Engiish

Teddy'Madrid on Freedom of Speech

Ramona Valdez on English and Spanish

Helen Ruybal on Learning English and Being Smart

Teddy Madrid on Learning English from the Presbyterians

Ethnic, Gender, and Religious Identity

Ramona Valdez on Ethnic Terminology

Teddy Madrid on the Connection with Spain

Discrimination and Prejudice

Helen Ruybal on Discrimination

Teddy Madrid on Multiple Identities and Axes of Prejudice

Ramona Valdez on Religious and Anti-Hispanic Prejudice

Bernadette Vigil on Chicano Consciousness

Teddy Madrid on Identity, Terminology, and Prejudice

Conclusion

Chapter 3 "Part of This World": Meanings of Land and Water 44

History of Land: Acquisition and Loss

Helen Ruybal's Land Acquisition and Sale

Land and Its Meanings

Monica Taylor's Dream of Land, Family, and Place

Monica Taylor's Perceptions of the Land

Ramona Valdez on the Meanings of Land

Teddy Madrid on Land, Home, and Family

Water in the Southwest

The Multiple Meanings and Uses of Water

Teddy Madrid on the Traditional Uses of Water

Teddy Madrid on Water as a Commodity

Janice DeHerrera on Water as aCommodity

Monica Taylor on Water as Life

Conclusion: Land, Water, Place, and Chicano Cultural Ecology

Chapter 4 "Anything You Want Is Going to Come from the Earth": The Traditional Diet

The Locally Produced Subsistence Diet

Ramona Valdez's Food Narrative

Meat: Domesticated and Wild Animal Foods

Helen Ruyba! on Raising Cattle and Beef

Teddy Madrid on Fishing, Hunting, and Making Jerky

Cultivated Foods: Grains, Beans, Vegetables, and Fruits

Asuncionita Mondragon on Her Grandparents' Garden in La lsia

Teddy Madrid on Food Production in Las Mesitas

Bernadette Vigil on Red and Green Chili

Gathered Plant Foods and Medicines

Helen Ruybal on the Importance of Pifion in Her Family

Teddy Madrid on Gathering Wild Foods in Las Mesitas

Ramona Valdez on Healing Herbs

Conclusion: Food, Place, and Culture

Chapter 5 "We've Got to Provide for the Family": Women, Food, and Work 91

Production, Reproduction, and Gender

Helen Ruybal's Story of Courtship and Marriage

Gender Expectations and Practices

Teddy Madrid on Her Family's Flexible Gender Division of Labor

Monica Taylor on the Strong Women in Her Family

Helen Ruybal on Gender Relations and Ideals

Women and Food Work

Teddy Madrid on Food Preservation

Monica Taylor on Gardening and Preserving Food

Janice DeHerrera on Food Preparation

Earning Money with Food

Helen Ruybal on Making and Selling Cheese

Ramona Valdez on Working in the Fields

Celina Romero on Working as a Cook and Field Hand

Asuncionita Mondragon on Raising Poultry and Selling Eggs

Balancing Work and Home

Teddy Madrid's First Paycheck

Teddy Madrid on Being a Working Woman

Janice DeHerrera on Balancing Job and Home

Conclusion

Chapter 6 "It's a Feeling Thing": Cooking and Women's Agency 114

Cooking and Agency

Teddy Madrid's Cooking Adventures

To Cook or Not to Cook

Helen Ruybal's and Her Sister's Different Approaches to Cooking

Janice DeHerrera's Cooking Expectations

Cooking, Self-Expression, and Emotional Connection

Janice DeHerrera on Creativity and Cooking

Janice DeHerrera on Cooking as Emotional Communication Cordi Ornelas's Paella

Learning and Teaching Cooking

Janice DeHerrera on Learning How to Cook

Monica Taylor on Learning to Cook and the Family Biscochito Recipe

Cooking and Gender

Teddy Madrid on Cooking after Marriage

Helen Ruybal on Her Husband's Cooking

Monica Taylor on the Chili Wars

Conclusion

Chapter 7 "Meals Are Important, Maybe It's Love": Mexicano Meals and Family

Family in Antonito

Janice DeHerrera on Family Ties versus Individual Ambition

Teddy Madrid on Her Father's Family Charge

Mexicano Family Meals

Martha Mondragon on Family Meals and Television

Janice DeHerrera on the Importance of the Family Meal

Meals and Gender Roles

Janice DeHerrera on Restaurants, Her First Communion, and Family Gender Power

Meals, Socialization, and Respect

Janice DeHerrera on Meals in Her Family of Origin

Martha Mondragon on Grace before Meals

Teddy Madrid on Family Meals, Respect, and Socialization

Asuncionita Mondragon on Teaching Spanish at Family Meals

Conclusion

Chapter 8 "It Was a Give-and-Take": Sharing and Generosity versus Greed and Envy

Cooperative Labor Exchanges

Cordi Ornelas on Work Parties

Yolanda Salazar on Making and Selling Tamales

Sharing and Generosity

Asuncionita Mondragon on Sharing Food with Neighbors

Helen Ruybai on Sharing Honey and Meat

Greed and Envy

Carmen Lopez and Helen Ruybal on Sharing, Cuzco, and Envidia

Helen Ruybal on Envy

Envy and Witchcraft

Helen Ruybal on Witchcraft, Curanderas, and Envy

Conclusion

Chapter 9 "Come Out of Your Grief: Death and Commensality 168

The Wake

Cordi Ornelas on Foods at the Wake

Helen Ruybal on Death, Velorios, and Funerals

Food Gifts for the Bereaved

Janice DeHerrera on Food and Death

Martha Mondragon on Death and Food Sharing

Farewell Dinners

Yolanda Salazar on Death, Community, and Commensality

Helen Ruybai on Farewell Dinners

Rending and Mending Community

Helen Ruybal on Different Funeral Traditions

Teddy Madrid on Presbyterian Funeral Feasts

Janice DeHerrera on the Meaning of Food at Funerals

Conclusion

Chapter 10 "Give Because It Multiplies": Hunger and Response in Antonito 181

Poverty and Food Insecurity

Bernadette Vigil on Caring and Hunger

Janice DeHerrera on Traditions of Sharing Food

Traditional Foodways, Sharing, and Making Do

Teddy Madrid on Hunger, Scarcity, and Sharing

Janice DeHerrera on Making Do with Beans, Tortillas, and Potatoes

Hunger in School

Janice DeHerrera on Hunger in the Elementary School

The Antonito Food Bank

Teddy Madrid on Presbyterian Support of the Food Bank

Janice DeHerrera on Hunger, Conscience, and the Food Bank

Conclusion

Chapter 11 Conclusion: "Our People Will Survive" 192

The Fourth of July Meal

Unpacking the Fourth of July Meal

Explanations for the Antonito Diet

Toward the Future

Appendix 1 Topics in Food-Centered Life Histories 201

Appendix 2 Categories of Analysis 203

Appendix 3 Population of Antonito, Conejos County, and Colorado, 1880-2000 205

Appendix 4 Wild Plants Used for Food or Healing in the Antonito Area 207

Notes 211

Glossary of Spanish Terms 227

Bibliography 231

Index 247

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