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CHAPTER 1

Jelly Beans

Americans have a love affair with sweets, and nothing evokes fun and giggles like jelly beans from a candy shop. Bright, cheerful sport-weight socks knit in easy-care washable yarn are sure to lift your spirits. These are shown knit in two lengths for little feet.

Sizes Child S (M, L)

Finished Measurements Circumference: 5 (6, 7 ¼)"

Foot length: 5 ½ (6, 7)"

Yarn Universal Yarns Uptown Baby Sport, sport weight, 100% acrylic, 361 yds / 100 g, 1 skein Petal #209 (crew sock) or 1 skein Violet #214 (kneesock)

Needles US 4 (3.5 mm) 9" straight needles or size needed to obtain gauge

Other Supplies Two stitch markers, waste yarn or small stitch holders, yarn needle, seaming pins, US G/6 (4.25 mm) crochet hook or size needed to match the slipped edge stitches (see Closing the Seam, page 15)

Gauge 24 stitches and 32 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

Knit a swatch for accurate sizing.

Left Sock

Kneesock

Cuff

Cast on 37 (45, 53) stitches loosely.

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, *p1, k1; repeat to end.

Slipping the first stitch of every row, work 9 (11, 13) more rows in established rib.

Leg

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, knit to end, increasing 3 stitches evenly across row, turn — 40 (48, 56) stitches.

Work 9 (11, 13) rows in stockinette stitch.

Decrease Row (RS) Slip 1, k12 (15, 18), k2tog, place marker, ssk, knit to end — 38 (46, 54) stitches.

Continuing in stockinette stitch, repeat Decrease Row every 10th (14th, 16th) row 3 more times — 32 (44, 48) stitches.

Work even until sock measures 7 ½ (8 ¾, 10)" or desired length.

Crew Sock

Cuff

Cast on 33 (41, 49) stitches loosely.

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, *p1, k1; repeat to end.

Slipping the first stitch of every row, work 9 (11, 13) more rows in established rib.

Leg

Decreasing 1 stitch (k2tog) in the middle of the first row, work in stockinette stitch until sock measures 3 (5, 6)" or desired length — 32 (40, 48) stitches.

Both Versions

Heel Flap

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, k1, transfer these 2 stitches to waste yarn or a small stitch holder; [slip 1, k1] 8 (10, 12) times, turn; transfer remaining 14 (18, 22) stitches to waste yarn or another small stitch holder — 16 (20, 24) flap stitches.

Row 2 Slip 1, p15 (19, 23), turn.

Working flap stitches only, repeat [Rows 1 and 2] 7 (9, 11) times — 16 (20, 24) flap rows.

Heel Turn

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, k8 (10, 12), ssk, k1, turn, leaving 4 (6, 8) stitches unworked.

Row 2 (WS) Slip 1, p3, p2tog, p1, turn, leaving 4 (6, 8) stitches unworked.

Row 3 Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap formed on previous row, ssk [1 stitch from each side of gap], k1, turn.

Row 4 Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap formed on previous row, p2tog [1 stitch from each side of gap], p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all heel stitches have been worked, ending with a WS row — 10 (12, 14) heel stitches remain.

Gusset

Row 1 Knit to the end of the heel; pick up and knit 8 (10, 12) stitches along the side of the flap, place marker; k14 (18, 22) stitches from holder.

Row 2 Slip 1, purl to end of heel; pick up and purl [from the back of the stitch] 8 (10, 12) stitches along the side of the flap, place marker; p2 stitches from holder — 42 (52, 62) stitches.

Row 3 Slip 1, knit to marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, knit to end — 40 (50, 60) stitches.

Row 4 Slip 1, purl to end.

Repeat [Rows 3 and 4] 4 (5, 6) times — 32 (40, 48) stitches. Remove markers.

Foot

Slipping the first stitch of every row, work even in stockinette stitch until foot measures about 3 ¾ (4 ¼, 4 ¾)" from the back of the heel, or about 1 ½" shorter than desired length.

Star Toe

Setup Row (RS) Slip 1, k5 (7, 9), k2tog, place marker, *k6 (8, 10), k2tog, place marker; repeat from
Row 2 Slip 1, purl to end.

Row 3 (RS Decrease Row) Slipping the first stitch, *knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog; repeat from
Repeat [Rows 2 and 3] 2 (3, 3) times — 20 (20, 24) stitches.

Next Row (WS Decrease Row) Slip 1, ssp, purl to marker, *p2tog, purl to marker; repeat from
Repeat RS and WS Decrease Rows until 8 stitches remain, working a last purl row without any decreases for size L.

Measure the yarn out to about five times the length of sock and cut. Using a yarn needle, thread tail through all stitches and pull up tight. Do not cut the yarn yet; the rest is used for seaming.

Seam

Fold the sock with wrong sides together. Match up the slipped edge stitches and pin in place. Using the crochet hook, slip stitch knitwise from the front into each corresponding set of stitches up to the top of the cuff to close the seam. (See page 15 ).

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Right Sock

Kneesock

Work Cuff and Leg as for Left Sock to Decrease Row.

Decrease Row (RS) Slip 1, k22 (27, 28), k2tog, place marker, ssk, knit to end.

Complete Leg as for Left Sock to Heel Flap.

Crew Sock

Work as for Left Sock to Heel Flap.

Heel Flap

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, k13 (17, 21), transfer these stitches to waste yarn or a small stitch holder; [slip 1, k1] 8 (10, 12) times, turn; transfer remaining 2 stitches to waste yarn or another small stitch holder — 16 (20, 24) flap stitches.

Row 2 Slip 1, purl 15 (19, 23), turn.

Complete Heel Flap and Heel Turn as for Left Sock.

Gusset

Row 1 (RS) Knit to the end of the heel; pick up and knit 8 (10, 12) stitches along the side of the flap, place marker; k2 from holder.

Row 2 Slip 1, purl to end of heel; pick up and purl [from the back of the stitch] 8 (10, 12) stitches along the side of the flap, place marker; p14 (18, 22) from holder — 42 (52, 62) stitches.

Continue as for Left Sock until Star Toe is complete.

Seam

Work as for Left Sock, but slip stitch purlwise from the back to close the seam.

CHAPTER 2

Green Leaves of Summer

These socks are named for an old song I heard on the car radio that reminded me how much time we spend outdoors in the summertime. A comfortable pair of basic stockinette socks will make your feet happy all day. Here is a classic fingering-weight sock in a smooth stockinette stitch for children and adults.

Sizes Child M (Child L, Adult S, Adult M, Adult L)

Finished Measurements Circumference: 6 (7, 8, 9, 10)"

Foot length: 5 ¾ (6, 8 ¼, 9 ¼, 10)"

Yarn Cascade Heritage or Heritage Paints, fingering weight, 75% superwash merino wool / 25% nylon, 437 yds / 100 g, 1 skein Moss #5612 (child version) or 1 skein Celtic #9770 (adult version)

Needles US 1 (2.25 mm) 9" straight needles or size needed to obtain gauge

Other Supplies Waste yarn or small stitch holders, two stitch markers, seaming pins, US F/5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook or size needed to match the slipped edge stitches (see Closing the Seam, page 15)

Gauge 32 stitches and 40 rows = 4" in stockinette stitch

Knit a swatch for accurate sizing.

Left Sock

Cuff

Cast on 49 (57, 65, 73, 81) stitches loosely.

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, *p1, k1; repeat from
Slipping the first stitch of every row, work even in established rib until piece measures 1 ½ (1 ½, 2, 2, 2)".

Leg

Decreasing 1 stitch (k2tog) in the middle of the first row, work in stockinette stitch until piece measures 4 ½ (5 ¼, 6, 8, 8)" or desired length — 48 (56, 64, 72, 80) stitches.

Heel Flap

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, k1, transfer these 2 stitches to waste yarn or a small stitch holder; [slip 1, k1] 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) times, turn; transfer remaining 22 (26, 30, 34, 38) stitches to waste yarn or another small stitch holder — 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) flap stitches.

Row 2 Slip 1, p23 (27, 31, 35, 39), turn.

Working the flap stitches only, repeat [Rows 1 and 2] 11 (13, 15, 17, 19) times — 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) flap rows.

Heel Turn

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, k12 (14, 16, 18, 20), k2tog, k1, turn, leaving 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) stitches unworked.

Row 2 (WS) Slip 1, p3, p2tog, p1, turn, leaving 8 (10, 12, 14, 16) stitches unworked.

Row 3 Slip 1, knit to 1 stitch before gap formed on previous row, ssk [1 stitch from each side of gap], k1, turn.

Row 4 Slip 1, purl to 1 stitch before gap formed on previous row, p2tog [1 stitch from each side of gap], p1, turn.

Repeat Rows 3 and 4 until all heel stitches have been worked, ending with a WS row — 14 (16, 18, 20, 22) heel stitches remain.

Gusset

Row 1 (RS) Knit to the end of the heel; pick up and knit 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) stitches along the side of the flap, place marker; k22 (26, 30, 34, 38) stitches from holder.

Row 2 Slip 1, purl to the end of the heel; pick up and purl [from the back of the stitch] 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) stitches along the side of the flap, place marker; p2 from holder — 62 (72, 82, 92, 102) stitches.

Row 3 Slip 1, knit to marker, k1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before next marker, k2tog, k1, knit to end — 60 (70, 80, 90, 100) stitches.

Row 4 Slip 1, purl to end.

Repeat [Rows 3 and 4] 6 (7, 8, 9, 10) times — 48 (56, 64, 72, 80) stitches. Remove markers.

Foot

Slipping the first stitch of every row, work even until foot measures about 4 ¼ (4 ½, 6 ½, 7 ¼, 8)" from the back of the heel, or about 1 ½ (1 ½, 1 ¾, 2, 2)" shorter than desired length.

Star Toe

Setup Row (RS) Slip 1, k9 (11, 13, 15, 17), k2tog, place marker, *k10 (12, 14, 16, 18), k2tog, place marker; repeat from
Row 2 Slip 1, purl to end.

Row 3 (RS Decrease Row) Slipping the first stitch, *knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog; repeat from
Repeat [Rows 2 and 3] 4 (6, 6, 8, 8) times — 24 (24, 32, 32, 40) stitches.

Next Row (WS Decrease Row) Slip 1, ssp, purl to marker, *p2tog, purl to marker; repeat from
Repeat RS and WS Decrease Rows until 8 stitches remain, ending with a plain purl row.

Measure the yarn out to about five times the length of the sock and cut. Using a yarn needle, thread tail through all stitches and pull up tight. Do not cut the yarn yet; the rest is used for seaming.

Seam

Fold the sock with wrong sides together. Match up the slipped edge stitches and pin in place. Using the crochet hook, slip stitch knitwise from the front into each corresponding set of stitches up to the top of the cuff to close the seam. (See page 15).

Fasten off. Weave in ends. Block as desired.

Right Sock

Work as for Left Sock to Heel Flap.

Heel Flap

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, k21 (25, 29, 33, 37), transfer these stitches to waste yarn or a small stitch holder; [slip 1, k1] 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) times, turn; transfer remaining 2 stitches to waste yarn or another small stitch holder — 24 (28, 32, 36, 40) flap stitches.

Row 2 Slip 1, purl 23 (27, 31, 35, 39) stitches.

Complete Heel Flap and Heel Turn as for Left Sock.

Gusset

Row 1 (RS) Knit to the end of the heel; pick up and knit 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) stitches along the side of the flap, place marker; k2 from holder.

Row 2 Slip 1, purl to end of heel; pick up and purl [from the back of the stitch] 12 (14, 16, 18, 20) stitches along the side of the flap, place marker; p22 (26, 30, 35, 38) stitches from holder — 62 (72, 82, 92, 102) stitches.

Continue as for Left Sock until Star Toe is complete.

Seam

Work as for Left Sock, but slip stitch purlwise from the back to close the seam.

CHAPTER 3

Flip-Flops in February

I live in a northern climate with plenty of snow and cold temperatures. But let the sun shine and the snow melt away for a few days, and out come the flip-flops — teenage girls here are a hardy bunch! These split-toe socks are a fun way to extend the flip-flop season and still keep feet warm.

Sizes Woman S (L)

Finished Measurements Circumference: 7 (8)"

Foot length: 8 (9)"

Yarn Wisdom Yarns Marathon Sock San Francisco, fingering weight, 75% superwash wool / 25% nylon, 437 yds / 100 g, 1 skein #201

Needles US 0 (2.0 mm) 9" straight needles or size needed to obtain gauge

Other Supplies Four stitch markers, waste yarn or small stitch holder, yarn needle, US F/5 (3.75 mm) crochet hook or size needed to match the slipped edge stitches (see Closing the Seam, page 15)

Gauge 36 stitches and 44 rows = 4" (10 cm) in stockinette stitch

Knit a swatch for accurate sizing.

Left Sock

Cuff

Cast on 65 (73) stitches loosely.

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, *p1, k1; repeat from
Rows 2–14 Slipping the first stitch of every row, work 13 more rows in established rib.

Leg

Decreasing 1 stitch (k2tog) in the middle of the first row, work in stockinette stitch until piece measures 3 ½ (4)" or desired length to heel, ending with a WS row — 64 (72) stitches.

Short-Row Heel

Setup Row (RS) Slip 1, k19 (21), place marker; work decreasing short rows on next 32 (36) stitches as follows:

Row 1 (RS) K31 (35), turn.

Row 2 (WS) Slip 1, p29 (33), turn.

Row 3 Slip 1, k28 (32), turn.

Row 4 Slip 1, p27 (31), turn.

Work 14 (16) more short rows in this fashion, working 1 fewer stitch each row and ending with a WS row that is worked as slip 1, p13 (15); turn.

Now work one more stitch in each short row until you get back to original stitch count as follows:

Row 1 (RS) Slip 1, k12, slip 1 knitwise, lift the bar between stitches and place it on the right-hand needle, then knit it together with the slipped stitch, turn.

Row 2 (RS) Slip 1, p13, slip 1 knitwise, lift the bar between stitches and place it on the right-hand needle, then purl it together with the slipped stitch, turn.

Continue working 1 more stitch each row until all heel stitches on knit (RS) row have been worked; knit to the end of the row.

Next Row (WS) Slip 1, purl across all stitches.

Foot

Slipping the first stitch of every row, work even until the foot measures 6 ½" from the back of the heel, or about 2 ½" shorter than desired length.

Toe Setup

Increase Row (RS) Slip 1, k38 (42), inc 1 using the e-wrap method (see page 140 ), place marker, k2, place marker, inc 1, k23 (27), turn — 66 (74) stitches.

Row 2 Slip 1, purl to end.

Continuing in stockinette stitch and slipping the first stitch of every row, increase by working an e-wrap before the first marker and after the second marker every RS row 3 more times, ending with a WS row; remove markers — 72 (80) stitches with 44 (48) stitches for the Main Toe Section and 28 (32) stitches for Big Toe Section.

Division Row (RS) Slip 1, k43 (47), then transfer the last 28 (32) stitches to waste yarn or a stitch holder for the Big Toe Section.

Main Toe Section

Row 1 (WS) Slip 1, purl to end.

Row 2 (RS Decrease Row) Slip 1, k8 (9), k2tog, place marker, [k9 (10), k2tog, place marker] 3 times — 40 (44) stitches.

Slipping the first stitch of every row, decrease by working k2tog before each marker every RS row 4 (5) times — 24 stitches.

Next Row (WS Decrease Row) Slip 1, ssp, purl to marker, [p2tog, purl to marker] twice, p2tog, purl to end — 20 stitches.

Repeat RS and WS Decrease Rows until 8 stitches remain, ending with a plain purl row.

Measure the yarn out to about six times the length of the sock and cut. Using a yarn needle, thread the tail through stitches on needle and pull up tight. Do not cut the yarn yet; the rest is used for seaming.

Big Toe

With WS facing, transfer stitches from the holder to the needle and rejoin the yarn.

Slipping the first stitch of every row, work even in stockinette stitch until the Big Toe measures 1"–1 ½" or desired length, ending with a WS row and decreasing 1 (2) stitch(es) (k2tog) evenly in the middle of the last row — 27 (30) stitches.

Row 1 (RS Decrease Row) Slip 1, k2tog, [k1, k2tog] 8 (9) times — 18 (20) stitches.

Row 2 Slip 1, purl to end.

Row 3 K2tog across — 9 (10) stitches.

(Continues…)

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Excerpted from "Knit Your Socks on Straight"
by .
Copyright © 2013 Alice Curtis.
Excerpted by permission of Storey Publishing.
All rights reserved. No part of this excerpt may be reproduced or reprinted without permission in writing from the publisher.
Excerpts are provided by Dial-A-Book Inc. solely for the personal use of visitors to this web site.

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