The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine

On December 5, 1985, the world's most expensive bottle of wine, a 1787 Chateau Lafite, sold at auction at Christie's in London for $156,000. The bottle was believed to have been ordered but never received by Thomas Jefferson for his personal collection, and had been discovered with several other bottles in a bricked up cellar in Paris two centuries later. The winning bidders, the Forbes family, immediately displayed their prize under a spotlight at their Fifth Avenue galleries building, where the bright light shriveled the cork, which fell into the bottle, and the wine quickly turned into the world's most expensive bottle of vinegar.

THE BILLIONAIRE'S VINEGAR is the story of this bottle (and other bottles from the same cache) and the cast of characters whose lives it touched: Thomas Jefferson, in his day America's most prominent oenophile; the Forbes family; German rock promoter-turned-über collector Hardy Rodenstock; Wine Spectator and Cigar Aficionado publisher Marvin Shanken; old-school British auctioneer Michael Broadbent; and others. It also investigates—and answers—the questions surrounding the bottles' apparent disappearance and rediscovery, the longest-running mystery in the modern wine world.

Recently, the story has taken a fascinating twist: relying on newly available scientific methods for evaluating old bottles of wine, a Texas billionaire who also bought one of the Jefferson bottles is now suing Hardy Rodenstock for fraud—and in the process threatens to bring the rare wine world to its knees.

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The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine

On December 5, 1985, the world's most expensive bottle of wine, a 1787 Chateau Lafite, sold at auction at Christie's in London for $156,000. The bottle was believed to have been ordered but never received by Thomas Jefferson for his personal collection, and had been discovered with several other bottles in a bricked up cellar in Paris two centuries later. The winning bidders, the Forbes family, immediately displayed their prize under a spotlight at their Fifth Avenue galleries building, where the bright light shriveled the cork, which fell into the bottle, and the wine quickly turned into the world's most expensive bottle of vinegar.

THE BILLIONAIRE'S VINEGAR is the story of this bottle (and other bottles from the same cache) and the cast of characters whose lives it touched: Thomas Jefferson, in his day America's most prominent oenophile; the Forbes family; German rock promoter-turned-über collector Hardy Rodenstock; Wine Spectator and Cigar Aficionado publisher Marvin Shanken; old-school British auctioneer Michael Broadbent; and others. It also investigates—and answers—the questions surrounding the bottles' apparent disappearance and rediscovery, the longest-running mystery in the modern wine world.

Recently, the story has taken a fascinating twist: relying on newly available scientific methods for evaluating old bottles of wine, a Texas billionaire who also bought one of the Jefferson bottles is now suing Hardy Rodenstock for fraud—and in the process threatens to bring the rare wine world to its knees.

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The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine

The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine

The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine

The Billionaire's Vinegar: The Mystery of the World's Most Expensive Bottle of Wine

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Overview

On December 5, 1985, the world's most expensive bottle of wine, a 1787 Chateau Lafite, sold at auction at Christie's in London for $156,000. The bottle was believed to have been ordered but never received by Thomas Jefferson for his personal collection, and had been discovered with several other bottles in a bricked up cellar in Paris two centuries later. The winning bidders, the Forbes family, immediately displayed their prize under a spotlight at their Fifth Avenue galleries building, where the bright light shriveled the cork, which fell into the bottle, and the wine quickly turned into the world's most expensive bottle of vinegar.

THE BILLIONAIRE'S VINEGAR is the story of this bottle (and other bottles from the same cache) and the cast of characters whose lives it touched: Thomas Jefferson, in his day America's most prominent oenophile; the Forbes family; German rock promoter-turned-über collector Hardy Rodenstock; Wine Spectator and Cigar Aficionado publisher Marvin Shanken; old-school British auctioneer Michael Broadbent; and others. It also investigates—and answers—the questions surrounding the bottles' apparent disappearance and rediscovery, the longest-running mystery in the modern wine world.

Recently, the story has taken a fascinating twist: relying on newly available scientific methods for evaluating old bottles of wine, a Texas billionaire who also bought one of the Jefferson bottles is now suing Hardy Rodenstock for fraud—and in the process threatens to bring the rare wine world to its knees.


Product Details

ISBN-13: 9780739358306
Publisher: Books on Tape, Inc.
Publication date: 05/13/2008
Edition description: Abridged

About the Author

BENJAMIN WALLACE, a New York Times bestselling author, has written for GQ, the Washington Post, Food & Wine, and Philadelphia, where he was the executive editor. He lives in Brooklyn.

Visit his website at BenjaminWallace.net.

Read an Excerpt

Chapter 1

Lot 337

A hush had come over the West Room. Photographers' flashes strobed the standing-room-only crowd silently, and the lone sound was the crisp voice of the auctioneer. To the world, Michael Broadbent projected a central-casting British cool, but under the bespoke suit, he was practicing a kind of mind control that calmed him in these situations. The trick was to focus narrowly, almost autistically, on numbers: lot number, number of bidders, paddle numbers, bid steps.

Even after all these years, he still found it bracingly creative to conjure excitement out of a heap of dirty old bottles. No matter how many of them the fifty-eight-year-old Broadbent might see, he retained his boyish sense of marvel at the longevity of wine. Inert antiques were all very well, but there was magic in old wine--a mysterious and wonderful alchemy in something that could live and change for two hundred years and still be drinkable.

Auctioneer was Broadbent's most public role, but it was only one of his distinctions in the wine world. In London he cut a familiar figure, pedaling to work each day on his Dutch ladies' bicycle with basket, legs gunning furiously, a trilby hat perched on his head. Often he was elsewhere, and he kept up a brutal schedule. As founding director of the Christie's wine department, he had spent the last two decades crisscrossing the planet, cataloging the dank and dusty contents of rich men's cellars, tasting tens of thousands of fine wines, and jotting his impressions in slender red hardcover notebooks. Those unassuming scribblings amounted to the most comprehensive diary of wine ever recorded. That diary now consisted of sixty of the Ideal notebooks, and he had collected them in a published tome that was the standard reference on old wines. Under Broadbent's direction, Christie's had largely invented and come to dominate the global market in old and rare wines. While Christie's as a whole was smaller than its great rival, Sotheby's, its wine department was more than twice as big, bringing in 7.3 million the previous season.

Broadbent's peers in the trade acknowledged that his palate was the most experienced in the world. His pocket textbook on wine tasting, the definitive work of its kind, was in its eleventh edition, having sold more than 160,000 copies, and had been translated into eight languages. Any collector hosting an event that aspired to any seriousness made sure to invite Broadbent and his famously sensitive nose. When he arrived at a wine gathering, if so much as a trace of woodsmoke or the merest whiff of cigarette ash besmirched the air, Broadbent would scrunch up his nose, and everything would come to a halt while windows and doors were flung open.

A lean six feet tall, Broadbent had a fringy sweep of whitening hair, and his smile, distinctly hail-fellow-well-met, was tempered by the cocked eyebrow of a worldly man. He looked more aristocratic than many of the dukes and princes alongside whom he sat on Christie's board of directors.

When Broadbent tasted, he would lay his wristwatch next to his little red notebook, so that he could time the wine's changes in the glass. During lulls, if a piano was on hand, he might charm guests with some Brahms, or he might go off by himself to sketch the local scenery.

He was happy to opine, at these tastings, on the wines under consideration. He had a knack for putting wine into memorable words. Sometimes he borrowed from literature, describing one wine as "black as Egypt's night." More often, he minted his own rakish descriptions, seeing a woman in every...

Table of Contents

1 Lot 337 1

2 Incognito 7

3 Tomb Raider 21

4 Monsieur Yquem 41

5 Provenance 57

6 "We Did What You Told Us" 67

7 Imaginary Value 81

8 The Sweetness of Death 95

9 Salad Dressing 107

10 A Pleasant Stain, but Not a Great One 125

11 The Diviner of Wines 139

12 A Built-in Preference for the Obvious 153

13 Radioactive 173

14 Letters from Hubsi 183

15 "Awash in Fakes" 197

16 The Last Vertical 213

17 Koch Bottles 225

18 Ghost Particles 237

19 Tailing Meinhard 251

20 The Finish 265

Notes 283

Acknowledgements 315

What People are Saying About This

From the Publisher

“Part detective story, part wine history, this is one juicy tale….as delicious as a true vintage Lafite.”
Business Week

“Splendid...A delicious mystery that winds through musty European cellars, Jefferson-era France and Monticello, engravers' shops, a nuclear physics lab, rival auction houses and legendary multi-day tastings conducted by the shadowy German who had discovered the Jefferson collection...Ripe for Hollywood.”
USA Today

“This is a gripping story, expertly handled by Benjamin Wallace who writes with wit and verve, drawing the reader into a subculture strewn with eccentrics and monomaniacs...Full of detail that will delight wine lovers. It will also appeal to anyone who merely savours a great tale, well told.”
The Economist

"A page-turner…What makes Wallace's book worth reading is the way he fleshes out the tale with entertaining digressions into Jefferson's wine adventures, how to fake wines (who knew a shotgun blast could make a bottle look old?) and dead-on portraits of several major wine personalities who intersected unhappily with the wines.”
Bloomberg

"Wallace’s depiction of rabid oenophiles staging almost decadent events to swill rare wine, knowingly depleting the reserves, are as much fun as the mystery."
The New York Daily News

“A riveting wine history, wine mystery, and more.”
—Dana Cowin, editor in chief of Food & Wine

"For anyone with at least a curiosity about precious old wines and the love of a good story, this well-crafted piece of journalism may prove as intriguing and enjoyable as a fine old Bordeaux.”
Seattle Times

"The season's wine reading cannot get off to a better start than with The Billionaire’s Vinegar,  one of the rare books on wine that transcends the genre ...Though the story is the collector’s world, the subject is also greed and how it can contort reality to fit one’s desires. It’s been optioned for Hollywood. I hope the movie’s as good as the book.”  
—Eric Asimov, The Pour, New York Times

“It is the fine details—the bouquet, the body, the notes, the finish—that make this book such a lasting pleasure, to be savored and remembered long after the last page is turned. Ben Wallace has told a splendid story just wonderfully, his touch light and deft, his instinct pitch-perfect. Of all the marvelous legends of the wine trade, this curiously unforgettable saga most amply deserves the appellation: a classic.”
—Simon Winchester, author of The Professor and the Madman and A Crack in the Edge of the World

“The Billionaire’s Vinegar is the ultimate page-turner. Written with literary intelligence, it has a cast of characters like something out Fawlty Towers meets The Departed. It takes you into a subculture so deep and delicious, you can almost taste the wine that turns so many seemingly rational people into madmen. It is superb nonfiction.”
—Buzz Bissinger, author of Friday Night Lights

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